ORIGINAL: LS171Malibu
Ok, Thanks. I am going to use conventional gear, and locate the mains in the fuse, this will take all of that force, and weight out of the wing panels. I will let Don determine the length.
Any input on the dihedral angle or anything else concerning moving the wing toward the thrust line? I don't have it nailed down yet, but I was considering a half to three quarters of an inch for doublers to support the wing tube.
Well, going with fuse mounted LG does simplify the wing tube issue. Still, though, I'm not sure that less than a third of the panel span (10 out of over 30 in) is sufficient to support the wing when pushing high G's. However, it sounds like you have a ~24" tube on your hands with 4" within the fuse and 10" into each panel. What's the tube intended for? Then again, an almost 1" diameter tube is pretty stout. I'd probably favor a thinner longer tube.
I didn't want to comment on your decalage proposition because it's one of those things that requires lots of testing. I know that it was done with the Illusion as an experiment on the Tipo 720 (the Illusion is a Tipo with more squares and a higher wing and reduced anhedral) and based on what I hear from the guys with ample experience (e.g., TonyF), the Illusion was not as good a pattern plane as the Tipo. Then again, people like Kimbro were of the school that wing and stab should be equidistant from the thrust line but that was for an altogether different kind of pattern plane (the Deception). My gut feeling tells me that vintage anhedral beasts like the Curare, Tipo, Magic and the like did better with a proper low wing position with respect to the pronounced stab anhedral. If you mess with that then you are getting into messing with the overall result of how the plane will end up flying - move the wing up, bring the stab down, change thrust angles, change the dihedral/anhedral and so on...
One thing I know is that Hanno built and flew many, many Curare's as did many other people and the plane was considered good enough to be copied or "varied" to the point that umpteen different iterations and variations of the Tipo came out. In short, Hanno must have had things just where he wanted them. If it was me, I wouldn't futz with the aerodynamics of the Curare, but then again, that's half the fun of modelling.
I'm not sure what you mean by 1/2 to 3/4" for wing tube support doublers. If you mean the thickness of the wall where the fuse sleeve is mounted, that's way overkill. The trick is to build it "torsionally" stiff. CF tubes are very strong but I wouldn't have a tube going across the fuse in a vacuum. I'd put a former just ahead or aft of the sleeve location across the fuse. The wall thickness of the sides for the tube can then be augmented with some simple 1/8" ply inside of the doubler essentially to support and bond the tube (and this is in addition to the already existing fuse side thickness and half length ply doubler).
David