I spoke to a representative of one manufacturer; He didn't know about resistance to nitromethane, but expressed concern about the practicality of uv lighting for diy-ers, the cost and technique. Another manufacturer has not replied to an email.
One essay compared the results of abrasion and chemical testing to three different uv cured paints, including resistance to ethanol. One paint was 100% resistant: epoxy acrylate.
I find many comments to the effect that uv cured paints are very difficult to remove because they cannot be dissolved by chemical solvents which will soften other paints.
Apparently the paints cure by "photo activators" in the resin. These respond to certain uv light of certain wave lengths. Subject the paint to the necessary light for two minutes and it's cured. One summarized it this way: the "catalyst" (photo activators) is in the paint, and the light starts the chemical process.
It appears that this technology is making inroads in automotive refinishing work, particularly for smaller repairs which can be done quickly and much more economically that with other techniques.
It also appears that there are a wide variety of uv light sources, from special mercury vapor lamps to leds. The curing lamps as they are called can be mounted or hand held. Prices range from the thousands to the hundreds. Protective glasses and other safeguards (long sleeve shirt, gloves, etc) are necessary to prevent unwanted uv light exposure to the painter.
One site pointed out this wrinkle: Primers are opaque, and not all of it cures. Fortunately, it is the "underside" that cures, and the outer uncured portion is removed with a cloth and a cleaner.
Yes, compatability will have to be investigated... toxic hazards too.
But I think it is worth looking into. I want to avoid isocyanates which are in every polyurethane product according to a 3M article.
I have had a friend paint two part epoxy for me, and it looked great, but he was a very experienced painter.
These paints seem attractive because of the fast cure time (settling dust has a much smaller window of time), no two part mixing, and the "no waste" factor (if stored in the dark).
The manufacturer's rep I spoke to mentioned cost: Perhaps $100 per gallon. That seems more than competitive to some of the products rc-ers use now.