Yeah I've been thinking how well the rivets will hold up. It's not held together purely with rivets though, there are bolts holding the important bits together too, I'll also replace some of the rivets on the roll cage and shock mounts with bolts also as I've just used rivets on some parts to temporarily hold them together. Given how thin the tubing is I'm using, I think welding it wouldn't work as I reckon it would just melt through.
For the steering servo yes I am indeed using the wiper motor servo now I know what I was doing wrong lol. I also have a smaller wiper motor which I'm going to use for the throttle/brake servo. I have to confess to not even thinking about the Ackerman angle but the turn buckles I'm using plus the angle I'm going to have the tie rods at should provide this. The front end is set up with some positive camber but no castor seeing as I'm using a wiper motor I don't think I'd need that feature in the steering. The rear has some positive camber too but once moving the suspension should settle and both wheels should end up on the negative camber side of near vertical.
The engine is bog standard for now but once it's running the way I like I'll start upgrading engine parts. I have a rocket key to advance the timing and I'll buy a better carb and Reed valve and maybe a better exhaust too. I only cut about two inches off the overall length of the exhaust but i have increased the distance between the expansion chamber to the exhaust port not out of gaining performance but to make it fit better lol. Not sure about drilling holes in the clutch shoes, I'll look into that when the time comes, same goes for the clutch springs.
I was thinking of using the guts from a cordless drill for the reverse actuated by a normal servo, with a small sprocket in the chuck to engage with the chain. Once the sprocket is engaged, the drill button is pressed by the linkage of the reverse mechanism to start the motor. Make sense? Lol.
Many thanks for all the info though, I'll definitely look at your builds
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