dangtaylor- You may not care, but I responded to your concern in my post above. I have read many, many threads on prop reaming over the years, and aside from which is the best 2 stroke oil it has to be one of the biggest topics people fret over and debate. There is absolutely no benefit whatsoever to having a long column of bearing surface for your prop against the engine shaft. And there is actually a benefit to having a tapered prop hole, namely that if the factory drilled the hole crooked the tapered hole will still let the prop sit flush against the drive hub. All the hole does is locate the prop in the right spot on the drive hub and hold it there long enough for you to tighten down the prop nut. It does absolutely nothing after that and experiences no side loads of any kind.
For the solutions that have been discussed in the thread, I don't see a single one that is going to be better than a tapered prop hole, not even the idea of remachining the reamer to make the right size hole. Adding bushings is a major waste of time and with so much removal of material from the prop, could lead to an imbalance as the prop hole tends to drift away from center as you ream it. Using something soft like fuel tubing is begging for an engine that shakes as the prop will be able to shift over while you are tightening it, and the tubing could find its way between the prop and the drive hub, which will result in a loose prop in flight. And, of course, fuel tubing isn't exactly a precision machined product for thickness and uniform hardness, so it's unlikely you'll get the prop properly centered anyway.
I bought one tapered reamer 10 years ago, a really cheap one. I've fitted every prop I've ever owned with it, and have never had a prop hole get wallowed out in use. Every prop I have is perfectly fitted to the shaft of the engine it's being used on regardless of SAE or metric or whether or not things are in spec or not. I also can push the tapered reamer to one side to get hubs in balance. APC in particular is notorious for drilling their prop holes off center, but I can fix them in just a minute or two as I size the prop hole. The tapered reamer is truly the perfect solution for this particular task, so there's no reason to complicate things further.