Old 01-01-2018, 01:17 PM
  #66  
essyou35
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Unfortunately I dont have the original main retracts, just the cylinders. I do have the plans and thats what Im using, Id say Im within 1/8" from stock location, but I am not sure if something is different on the super bandit where the gear can fit a bit better. Anyways Im happy with it so far.
The canopy and hatch when set down on a flat surface do not sit flat as you can see it the pic, it sits on the fuse the same way. (Note the canopy cutout needs to be fine sanded yet so plz ignore).

I will try sand some and may need to use a heat gun to get it flat. Its like the inner/under lip is twisted down. Ill work on it some.

I think I have a small regret in that for the flaps I used the stock nylon hinges. I wish I would of use pin hinges, Im sure they will hold fine.


BTW the measurement of a man is no longer how your hatches fit. Its how big AND new your jet is. Given this is a very old and small jet, Ive lost my manhood simply by building it.

Originally Posted by John Redman View Post
I built a few of these back in the day. Here goes.
If the mains are not absolutely perfect, is it really going to matter (so long as the retract up ok and the doors close)?
I doubt this will matter much. of by a little bit shouldn't make a difference as long as everything works fine. Using the original retracts and system would ensure the defined lines on the panel would be perfect. Changing to these retracts was a great idea over the originals.

Can this jet be done without the splitter plates so it looks more like the super/arf?
I don't believe so. The cheek cowls are designed to sit off the fuselage. The main purpose of this back in the day was to get clean air to the intakes.On the DF version the Bandit was very large for its size back in the day and needed the purest form of air into the intakes for performance. Bob was a stickler for that. End result was I know my Bandit DF was a cool 180 in level flight and hit 224 in a dive through the speed traps. Going through my memory I don't think there is any other way with how he designed it.

My canopy and hatch do not set will, some spring action in them with gaps against the fuse. Whats the best way to get a good fit?
It was common to fit the main hatch first and then the canopy hatch. You might need to sand a bit away on the aft side of the main hatch and on the front side of the canopy hatch.You used to be measured by your peers on how well your craftsmanship was by the fit of your hatches. But times have changed so you are probably fine. Today half of the worlds population can't define if they are a man or a woman. Key is take your time. It used to take me around 8 - 10 hours to fit hatches.
I have more but thats it for now.
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Last edited by essyou35; 01-01-2018 at 01:23 PM.