Originally Posted by
Gubling
Hey thanks you very much. Im from the south of Spain. I will try that. It lets me take off the carburetor and the O-ring seems to be fine, when I post 10 times I'll be able to post photos. I've been able to remove the cover side that doesn't have the crankcase and clean better from inside. Will keep you informed.
If I realized you were in Spain I would have posted temperatures in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit! Welcome to the hobby and never fail to ask a question it is the only way to learn in this hobby and it will always save you a mistake or two down the load. It doesn't matter if you are 8 or 80 years old there is always something new to learn. That is what keeps all us old farts in the hobby we still get challenged by it.
I suspect your engine problem is just a fine film of fuel left in the engine after it last run before storage and the castor oil in the fuel acts like glue when it dries out. Heat melts the glue and frees up the moving parts. Glow fuel sitting long term in an engine is bad for it. The alcohol the major component draws moisture that can rust roller bearing if the engine has them. The Castor oil necessary for lubrication and more important for cooling forms a gum and causes the engine to seize up. Glow fuel has changed a lot over time you can get fuel with all synthetic oils which won't gum the engine but it doesn't do as god of job as cooling. I prefer a hybrid fuel, a fuel that uses mostly synthetic oil but still has a little castor oil for cooling and protection. I always run the tank dry and work after run engine oil into the engine at the end of everyday flying. In long term storage engines are best checked and oiled regularly to keep them in good shape. I will guarantee someone will argue against my choice of fuel and they will make excellent points, fuel choice comes down to personal preferences, experiences, and how and what you are flying.