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Old 03-12-2021, 02:14 AM
  #64  
alasdair
 
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Scotland, UNITED KINGDOM
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Hi Dave, thanks for the advice.
I could take the vent pipe back with the feed to exit near the engine access panel. Would that be better? Still longer than my usual vent, but possible. I didn't know long vent lines were a problem.

I had been under the impression that an absorption pickup in the UAT made another in the main tank unnecessary, and caused more flow restriction. Does that not matter? I could change it for a pleated paper or felt clunk if you think that is better.
And I could take out the 2" or so of hard pipe just before the clunk. I have been told it's a good idea (to avoid having the clunk flick forward in a sudden stop). I have had that problem a few times on glow engined models in the past and it seemed sensible. It is large bore brass tubing, same as in the tank bung.

The remote seen on top of the Rx will be mounted high in the fuselage. The one attached to the UAT has some servo wires passing. They could pass the other side of the UAT.
And/Or I could wrap the wires with aluminium foil. I had to do that on my Wren 54 as the RPM sensor was giving false readings, picking up interference from the glow or starter leads, but a wrap of kitchen foil cured it.
But all the signals on this engine are digital.
My installations are never neat. I envy neat installations.
Alasdair