RCU Forums - View Single Post - GREAT PLANES 1/3 PITTS ARF - INFORMATION FOR THOSE LOOKING TO BUY OR ALREADY HAVE ONE ...
Old 11-19-2003, 07:25 PM
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n714wp
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Default GREAT PLANES 1/3 PITTS ARF - INFORMATION FOR THOSE LOOKING TO BUY OR ALREADY HAVE ONE ...

I have read current and posts that are nearly a year old describing this airplane, owner experiences and questions regarding engine size, performance, airframe failures, etc.

I hope this post will help those in question to make a final decision (either way) regarding the purchase or ownership of this model aircraft.

My qualifications: R/C planes (sport and scale) since 1972 - Helicopters since 1984
This is NOT bragging - I am simply stating here that I have seen, built and flown A LOT of model aircraft. My opinions and judgements posted here are mine and mine alone and I hope will serve a USEFUL purpose. Regardless of its beauty, this aircraft is big, heavy and potentially deadly if not handled in an experienced fashion.


Last month I ordered, received and built the GP PITTS 1/3 SCALE ARF. My first flight was this past weekend.
Here is MY MOST HUMBLE "2 cents" on this ARF aircraft, power, handling and cautions ...


THE KIT ITSELF:
I received, as anticipated, the "UPDATED" version. (Please refer to the many posts regarding the actual/specific updates made by the manufacturer.)

Absolutely worth every penny for it's LOOKS.
I could NOT build AND cover for the price tag it carries as a true ARF.

The QUALITY of the CONSTRUCTION is typical of pre-fab, non-US assembly. However, I would consider the OVERALL quality/craftsmanship as adequate for it's size and weight.

The forward , right side cabane strut mounting block was pre-drilled 1/2 inch too far forward. This hole was plugged and redrilled to match the left side mounting position. Until corrected, it would have been IMPOSSIBLE to have the cabane struts line up perfectly to accept the top wing "L" bracket s and bolts. This is an apparent factory template or measurement error.

The belly pan was not correctly shaped to "blend" with the fuse however this was considered a minor flaw.

Nothing about the tail feathers is worth noting.

The upper and lower wing half assembly was straightforward.

Ailerons - Great Planes states that you can use 2 aileron servo's for control of the 4 ailerons. This is accomplished by driving the two lower ailerons with 1 servo each AND THEN ADDING (GP does NOT state any particular method) A CONNECTING ROD BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER AILERONS thereby negating the need for 2 upper aileron servos. IF YOU HAVE NEVER COUPLED AILERONS ON STAGGERED AND SWEPT WINGS BEFORE, I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU EITHER TAKE TIME TO FIGURE OUT THE CORRECT ANGLES, CONTROL HORN POSITIONS, REQUIRED DEFLECTION, ETC. *BEFORE* ATTEMPTING A 2 SERVO INSTALLATION FOR A 4 AILERON AIRCRAFT or add the 2 additional upper wing servos..
The added weight of 2 additional servos for the upper wing ailerons plus the added security of 2 more directly driven control surfaces is well worth it. PERIOD. 'Nuff said on that subject.

Firewall - adequate for ANY power *RECOMMENDED* by the manufacturer. THIS IS NOT A "3-D" performing model. It should be flown scale and ANYTHONG OVER the max. engine displacement should be avoided. Beefing up the firewall to secure the added weight or power of a non-compliant engine puts YOU in the "Experimental" category as well.


ENGINE:
I chose a G45 (Zenoah) gasser for power. It's performance for this plane is a perfect match. Done.


WEIGHT:
Ready to fly, with the G45, muffler and dry (no gas) she is at 18 pounds. Based on it's performance, (see more on performance below) I WILL be adding a smoke system. The added weight will NOT have a significant affect on it's flying habits.

FLYING/PERFORMANCE:
EXTREMELY PREDICTABLE and probably one of the MOST realistic looking aircraft I have seen take to the air.
I modeled mine after a local pilots full scale Pitts. (See my enclosed picture - The picture is of MY MODEL not the full size Pitts.
Take off - No special remarks here ... except, as with any airplane, make sure it has adequate speed BEFORE pulling back on the stick.
Most of the first flight was 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. All vertical maneuvers were performed with throttle management where necessary to keep the speed as constant as possible through all vertical maneuvers, i.e., full throttle or cut throttle.

If you dead-stick - DO NOT PANIC - Immediately DROP THE NOSE a bit and keep it slightly down until final landing flare. Speed WILL bleed off quite fast so a negative wing attitude is necessary to keep in the non-stall configuration. IF YOUR LOW when you deadstick, DO NOT ATTEMPT to make any steep turns. You will need adequate airspeed for the final touchdown flair - wherever that may be!

Throttled Landing: If you chop the throttle, just keep the nose down and the airspeed up... she will 3-point with a well-timed flair. If you fly her in under some power, 1/4 throttle is nice for a smooth 2-wheeler touchdown.

This plane has NO undesirable habits. However, if this is your first LARGE aircraft, remember that you are flying more weight and you will need (relatively speaking) a new sense for altitude, distance and speed. Practice stalls with plenty of altitude until you become familiar with the flying characteristics of this OR ANY NEW AIRCRAFT.

As with any 1/4, 1/3 scale or larger model, RESPECT IT'S WEIGHT AND POWER.


Specifics of my model:
Zenoah G45 power-plant
Futaba radio
8 high-torque servos
Slimline brand wrap-around style pitts muffler w/sti smoke chamber (Sounds awesome by the way ... )
Stock wheels
Stock Gas tank
Stock firewall - (Epoxy coated the ENTIRE firewall and box)
Smoke system WILL be: TME pump, check valve and restrictor, futaba 6 volt battery and 16-24 oz tank
Balanced at 5 1/2 (5.5) inches from top wing lead-edge.
Some extras were added - note closely the landing gear and horizontal stabilizer struts and the wings "wire" bracing.
18 Pounds dry

Please feel free to E-mail me if you have any questions. I will respond ASAP.
- Carmen

[email protected]
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