ORIGINAL: rays89
No Plastic here, I had some time so I completely rebuilt the entire tranny all with metal parts. Presently this car is becoming a rather expensive paperweight, I cannot get the Epic .18 motor to fire, Ive messed with the needle settings even used a starter box but wound up with a blistered middle finger and half a tank of nitro on my left arm. looks like a trip to the LHS. RC10gtguy ok Ill bite, That squirrel is either stuffed or very disciplined to pose for the camera.
rays89, I had the most difficult time starting this engine for the first time....., much more so than any motor I have owned, big blocks included.. I mean tell me about you, but I have NEVER seen so much compression. My .27 BB didn't hold a candle. I had to call Trinity and you won't beleive what they told me.
In order for them to make a powerful motor that would really last, they made the fit VERY tight (blisters!) They were taking engines that people couldn't start and turning them in a drill press (with a rubber mesh over the crank, not me though) 3-6 seconds at a time for a total of 8-10 pulls (use afterrun oil before each). Well I didn't want to do all of that, and drill presses are slow so I got a 6mm yank-elim and removed the pullstart. I had actually cracked my one-way in the starter, but I'll get to why.... After making pulls like Trinity said with my Yank-elim and rechargable drill, I decided to start it with the Yank elim (my hand-starter/starter box wouldn't turn it over when it was new!) and guess what... The recommended factory settings are WAY too rich. After leaning out the top end by 1/8 to 1/4 turn (don't remember exactly) I finally got it to sputter to life. Then the plug died, after just one sputter. So a new plug and it fired up. It never got over 120F and ran out the tank in what I swear was under a minute! Massively rich. I leaned it out a tad and restarted after it cooled and got it up to 150F.
It was all downhill from there. I have run about 12 tanks and it is REALLY strong. It tosses my ST around. Even with Road Rage IIs and my rear suspension set VERY soft, as soft as I could really go, it still will flip over backwards once the temps pass 200F or so. It is cold-natured but by 200F it is getting strong. It revs so high sometimes it would sound lean but by tank 10 I had never gotten over 230F. For the last 2 tanks I had it set where I will pretty much keep it, 250F at the end of the tank and MAN IT IS STRONG.
If you have any more questions/problems and you think I may have some info you need, drop me a PM. Oh yeah, use a hairdryer to warm it up first, that made a big difference too.