There is only one problem with landing lightweights hot, they don't sink. I don't think you will really benefit from this, the local hobby store might. The idea of adding weight helps but still will not duplicate the characteristics of a low wing fighter. The high wing design is still too stable. I've flown a 66" H9 Cessna arf at 17lbs, you needed to keep the speed up or 'hot' as stated, but it still didn't perform like a warbird. The wing loading at 67oz. on this wing was tremendous. I've yet to have a warbird this high for the size. My vailly P-47 is 33lbs at 55oz loading but has a huge wing.

I think the term 'hot' is used incorrectly, warbirds come in under power but that does not mean you need gobs of airspeed. Most 40-60 size warbird ARF's tend to be light. A H9 60 mustang is in no way heavy and lands at a trainer pace. I got rid of my H9 corsair because it was so light you had to finesse it lightly onto the ground. If the wind was blowing it was all over the place. Kyosho's glass series and GSP FW and Corsair duplicate the handling of larger birds quite well. My first giant plane was a H9 PT-19 with a G-23. I don't think there was a better entry level arf for giant warbirds. Your Kyosho PT should be quite tame with sport model characteristics. A good stepper from the 4 star.

Here's an example of a biggie:

Take off with Ziroli P-40, line up into the wind, holding full up elevator gradually advance the throttle to 1/4 open, correct the yaw with rudder and start easing up on the elevator, keep advancing the throttle, at this point you should be ' flying the tail' which means it's up, you're controlling the nose over tendencey but not allowing the plane to leave the ground yet, at 3/4 throttle airspeed is coming up, the mains get light and a touch of elevator and it's up. Follow thru with full throttle for the climb out, ease off the rudder and it's gear up retrim for cg change.

Flying rules: No sharp turns, no bank and yank, nice long sweeping turns and calculated moves, throttle up for climbs and back for dives, mine flies well at 3/4 power. A large heavy bird will tend to have lots of inertia. When you turn it might overbank, coming out of a dive it will mush a bit in a turn it will slide. You need to be two steps ahead of the thing at all times. Know you're next move and where you will be placing it.

Landing: Make your landing break and drop the gear, retrim for the cg change (you can cheat with a mix) I usually will enter the pattern and make a circuit and reduce to about 1/2 throttle and drop flaps, correct any trim changes needed (or cheat with a mix, I do here) At this point, the plane has slowed down, the nose angle tends to drop down from the flap input but maintains level flight. Three greens, good to go, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning crosswind..... now downwind and make sure you're happy with the trim, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning base, at this point cut power back to 1/4, you will start decending slowly, Alapha-kilo six-three-four turning final, by now the plane will have slowed down but is still flying well, controls will still feel positive, back to 1/8 throttle, cross the threshold, let the flaps work, correct for yaw and keep the wings level , work your elevator to control the speed, pull up to slow, drop to increase, if you're low add a little power, the plane is not 'hot' but under power with a nice airspeed and sinking, touch the mains gently (I shy away from three pointers, this will tend to increase tip stall due to pulling the nose higher/angle of attack- watch most warbirds at airshows, not many fighters will 3 point) and cut power, keep flying ! the tail is gradually let down as your speed bleeds off, you will go through a point where rudder doesn't have enough airspeed and the tailwheel has too much. No major moves here, just light corrections until you stop rolling. Back taxi with canopy open and smoke that cigar !

Very few planes need to come in blazing 'hot', if you have a heavy AT-6 with no flaps then maybe but most well built warbirds with flaps don't need that. Under power means not at idle but not at 1/2 either, each will differ slightly in the ideal power setting.

As stated above, you have to be the one to decide when to move up.

S1