it 's confussing when going from a trainner to a 4*
2% right thrust on trainners.
The 4 * has 2% down thrust built in I belive, but nothing mentioned
about right thrust.

How to mount or get the center line is on the plan.
I decided to add 2% right on my first 4*.
I also had the mount slightly off center to compensate for the centering of
the prop or spiner.
However, I ended up removing the right thrust
to make the plane trace truer. (added washers)

The 4* 40 is a great flier, wieght is a matter of taste to me.
The plane gets toss around pretty good in semi windy conditions.
I usually clip the wings 3-4" total and take out the diehedral and
it still floats

Depending on what engine/fuel tank you will be using , sometimes it'll
come out nose heavy. Posistioning the battery pack can be tricky
if you don't want to add lead to the tail.
I ended up mounting the pack in the cockpit and painting the canopy
to conseal it. This is after I've went with lighter wheels even.
If you have a flat battery pack you can plan ahead and mount
the servo tray a little bit forward. It will allow the pack to be mounted
aft of the tray under neath the rods.

if you're real pickie....
you'll notice the verticla stab is a just sitting on top of the horizontal stabs.
Not too healty if the plane decise to nose over on a landing on a dirt or grass field.
I added a tail a tail post and recutted the verticle stabilizer.
This way the fuselage is locking it in place like most other kits.
I also drilled tooth picks to the bottom of the verticle and have
extrude thur the horizontal into the tail piece.
I also added tri under the horizontal to stab.
The instructions will tell you to add tri ON TOP...which is not a pretty sight.
I also did away with the stock tail gear to relive stress to the rudder.

This will have more affect on the plane than the rotationing position of the engine
Be aware of the elevators. Makesure they're even.
Bend the rods to compensate before you glue.
The rod might be striagth.....but its the different angle that you drilled the holes for the rods.

I also had to notch #3 former , this will allow clearence for the airlerons torque
rods. You deffernently have to clip them.

I also leave the front bottom piece of the fuselage ungluded and make it a
hatch for the fuel tank and easy access to the bottom of the engine mount.
You never know when those engine mounts screws decide to get loose.
I usually use #8 machine screws with nylock nuts just to makesure.

It's also a good idea to put nylock nuts for the wheel axles.
It sucks to try to land without wheels.lol

I'm real pickie...
I mount a GP.40 extra 300 or .60 size landing gears on mine to give more clearance.
It saves me money on props later on.

If you're super pickie.
Those 1/4 balsa stock on the front part of the wing sucks.
I found myself many times having to cut film to reglue them back in place.
For some stupid reason , I'll pick up or grab the wing at that area.
The next 4* .40 will defferntly get some sprute or hardwood