I can see where the one to two minute applications could work, as I noticed some light spots happening right away with the first application. After rinsing it and trying it again, some spots were not comming off, especially around the fuel nipple where it would be harder to polish. I kinda gave up after that, thinking it would just need to soak longer....and thats when the blackening occured and I just went with it and ended up with what you see. I suppose if I were working with larger parts, and maybe a different color of anodizing (in this case - gold) it would be easier to see it work, and where more work was needed with the brush, and staying away from areas that were already stripped. I have bead blasted anodizing before and it DOES do a nice job of things, but in this case I wanted to stay away from that, as this was a "fuel" area and would be too hard to completely clean off the glass residue powder left behind, especially in the steel needle valve threads. A word of warning here that wasn't mentioned, is NEVER glass bead-blast INTERNAL areas of an aluminum motor...the glass "powders" itself into the aluminum, and no matter how clean you think you have rinsed it....it will continue to release itself into the motor, killing its life span. You can still do the outside, just make sure you tape off the all the openings (tapped holes also) before you bead blast with duct tape is all.