RE: Airworld Hawk Building thread
I would install the nose formers first and leave the doors till later.
Glass hinges were supplied in my kit and these will be countersunk into the internal door stiffeners.
Dont know what the three rivets are for !
The nose doors will need to be about 1/4 inch longer and the secondary nose door reduced accordingly, you can see that in any side view of the Hawk nose.
My Main gear doors are in. Starting from scratch this was a painful and time consuming process but it now all works beautifully and I have an extrmely solid mounted , frictionless door set up, with perfect fits I have ever had and they can be removed in seconds as I have used a removeable 1/16th music wire as an "axle" passing through both hinges.
Vital measurements :
The doors stop short of the vertical by 18 degrees. (BAe drawing)
You must leave a gap of about 1.5mm between the inside edge of the door and the wing structure to allow free opening.
The holes of the hinges which are mounted on the door should be at :
5/16ths inch from the door edge.
17/64ths inch from the lower, outside edge of the door. get that right and the door will JUST touch the smoke pod sides when open.
The wire is supported by two small spansise light plyn ribs each faced with a small piece of 1/16th glass board.
With the door taped in place the wire passes through the rib (which is a slightly loose fit in the wing, the first hinge, the second hinge and another small glass faced rib. When everything is in perfect alignment the ribs are tack glued into the wing to check all OK, then secured with Hysol.
You need to cut an access hole in the root rib to get at the rear hinge.
I will use standard JR 4721 servos for the doors as (a) I have some spare)and (b) strong servos will be needed on these large doors.
That should all be crystal clear (!!!!) so I will post a couple of pictures later.
Regards,
David Gladwin.