malcolmm

I don't think the 49" has anything in common with the Brio, apart from it being available with a Brio like colour scheme.

Malcolm

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I cannot speak for the Brio... but as stated the only thing it shares in common is the shape of the scheme...

The 49" Yak is a Somenized plane... which is Quique's trademarked brand for his personal loving care. I am ready to fly mine but between the weather, not feeling good and only getting out one time this year... I wanted to take my time and do it right...

It's a sweet electric... BIG... and should perform awesome if I get only half of what I see in Quique's video.

The weather is raining the next couple days... but this weekend is opening up and I WILL fly it and finish the review...

YakPak

Maudib,

Thanks appreciate the input.

Looking forward to your review.

Yak Pak

mocgp

Maudib: Received the Yak today, it really is impressive. Quite a bit larger than I had envisioned it. Only 1 bad part found, the tailwheel o-ring was broken. Looks like it might be a standard o-ring size at the hdwe store.

The first real check regards the mounting of the motor. Page 32 of the manual shows the Hacker mounted with the outrunner forward, but there is only 1" of space between the firewall and the front of the cowl. The Hacker must not be very long, although the picture of the plane on the box does show the prop to be more than 1/2" beyond the cowl ring. My Eflite Power 25 will definitely not mount with the outrunner forward. The prop would be over 1 1/4 inches past the cowl. It appears that the only way to mount the 25 is to reverse the outrunner and (at least) 1/4" thickness to the firewall to get the prop just outside the cowl ring. I would also have to remove the legs of the existing firewall to clear the motor case. It's appears to be a fairly easy re-engineer, but I guess I'm a bit disappointed that the firewall is not designed to be adapted to a wider range of motor cases and mounting brackets.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

The Hacker A30-14L isn't a really long motor... after you attach the rear bracket and prop adapter it's 1 7/8" from firewall to prophub...

Here's a pic of the motor only and then the cowl on and spinner/prop...

I thought the same thing at first... thinking maybe the motor went on behind the firewall... but after it all came together... it looked right...

Still a much longer motor (how long is the Power 25?) would stick even further out...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

An option I thought of for the really long motors is illustrated in the picture below...

Basically a small plate (ply, phenolic, CF or aluminum) is made as a front plate for the motor (motor installs behind the plate).

This plate is stood off the existing firewall enough to get the proper prophub distance.

A larger hole is cut into the existing firewall to allow the motor to set back in...

The satndoffs probably won't be much more than 1" long because the shaft and prop adapter will take up the rest...

mocgp

The 25 is 2 inches long (case) but it is 2 3/4" to the back of the prop. If I mounted it stock, the back of the prop would be exactly 2 inches beyond the cowl ring. That's just too far. After looking at it again, I think the ideal solution is to add a ply ring on the back of the motor mount, just large enough I.D. to clear the outrunner case, and about 3/8 or 7/16 wide. Then remove the ply from the motor mount "X" within the circle. By mounting the motor (now reversed) on 3/4" spacers, the back of the prop then comes to within about a 1/2 inch of the cowl ring. I like that idea best so far. Seems to retain the integrity of the motor mount and minimizes the length of the adjustment being made. Also minimizes the loss of air flow through the area. What do you think? If you have another option, I'd be glad to entertain it.

mocgp

Senior moment; I scrolled right past your second post with the diagram. That's the same wavelength I was on. Thanks.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Just to be clear, here is a top view of what I was trying to describe.... Using those nylon spacers from Lowe's or Home Depot and some long 6/32 screws and nylon locknuts... this would be pretty sturdy and cheap...

mocgp

Precisely. Almost exactly how I pictured it before I saw your other diagram.

On a different note, I need to order batteries and I am wondering if I should go with the 3S 3300's or the 4S 2500's. I noticed in the QQ video that he is using a 3S 4200. The Power 25 is rated at 32a continuous, 44a burst. I'm not sure how ounce-conscious I should be here; the weight of the 25 (with the ESC) is up around 9 oz. so I am thinking I probably need to go with the lighter 3300's and trade a couple of ounces of battery weight for a slightly shorter flight time.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

What ESC do you have?

mocgp

Phoenix 45

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Keep in mind that most ESCs (including the CC-45) require that the BEC be disabled if you use 4+ lipo cells... so I think that answers your question...

mocgp

Righto - that's on the label. So if I stick with the 3S, I could go with the 3300 or even the 3850; I think it is less than 1 oz. heavier than the 3300. I'll do some weigh-ins tomorrow and see how much I have to play with. I don't really want to see it go much over 53-54 oz.

Back to the motor mount; I wouldn't need to fab the new motor plate, the mount supplied with the 25 will do nicely. The mounting holes in the existing motor "X" don't line up but I will fill those and redrill through the new backplate.

Once again, thanks for your assistance and ideas so far. Looking forward to your flight review.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I thought the Power 25 only came with a rear mount bracket... how will that help you with a front mount? AT any rate... make sure to share photos

On the 3S... stick to the 3300's heavier is against you on 3S as you'll have less thrust/watts...

If I was doing this standoff mod... I'd probably skin the firewall with 1/8" lipeply (cover the 'X" witha solid sheet. It will only weigh a few grams but it really needs to be there... the hole you will have to cut to allow the motor to set back in will completely sperate the "X" that's there... and that won't be suffcient.

So again I'd cut a liteply plate to fill the whole irewall area between the tristock... then when I did the standoffs I wouldorient them so that the screws passed through the "X" left nehing ht enew firewall acting as a doubler...

You may find they'll have to be pretty far out to allow room for the motor in between... like this:

mocgp

The Eflite motors can be switched from front plate to back plate. They are sold as back plate mounts (with the outrunner can forward of the mounting bracket) but you can reverse the arrangement so the outrunner can is behind the bracket.

I will make sure that I maintain the strength of the motor mount plate in this process. I'll document it and send you some pics.

mocgp

Maudib: I managed to get the Eflite 25 mounted satisfactorily (I took plenty of pics that I'll post up later), and the cowl is fitted; I have about 1/2 clearance, only had to extend the bracket out past the firewall about 5/8".

I assembled all the pieces just to get a "first look" and was disgusted to discover how badly out of shape the landing gear is. The wing tips differ from level by over an inch and the wheels are set at a ridiculous angle (inward) to the ground, as well as being toed-in significantly. The plane could easily be damaged by trying to taxi or take off in this condition. The gear seems to be molded from some sort of resin (looks and smells like casting resin) so I have begun to rework the ends by adding some more epoxy that can be reshaped and drilled for the correct ground track.

I'm on track for the maiden next weekend. Have you had any air time on yours yet?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Not yet... we either had rain, a little snow or wind the past week... THursday looks like the day...

Sorry about your gear... Mine lloked pretty good I thought... if it's bad enough, take a pic and e-mail QQAircraft... I'm sure they'll take care of you...

YakPak

Well boys the brown truck is coming on Thursday, so I'm joing the 49" club.

The Duralite evo 25 batteries will not be available for a while, so I ordered the plane/motor and esc combo without the batteries.

Being new to the electric side of the sport I am to sure what an Evo 25 gives you over an Evo 20.

Could someone explain that to me ?
Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

For most applications nothing... they allow a higher current draw without harming the batteries...

at 20C on a 4S 2500 pack you get 50 amps already... on a system that draws 40-44 amp this is PLENTY

a 25C pack would allow 62.5 amp load...


Has nothing to do with flight time... only if you were wanting to "push the envelope" with a setup one SOME bird that would draw higher amps... would this be an advantage...

So for practical use on this plane... you would see no difference at all... and to be honest... you start pushing 60 amps... you'r fgonna want mroe than 2500 mah to fly with cause you'd only get 5 minute flights...

YakPak

Thanks Maubid

Appreciate the explanation.

I have a Accu-cycle elite which only accepts up to 3 cells (Lipo), so I will go with the Evo 3 cell 3300 mah.

Yak Pak

mocgp

Hey, Maudib: Were your elevator and rudder horns correct?

I just fitted mine in the slots and the elevator horn holes are well behind the hinge line (about 1/8"). The rudder horn holes are well ahead of the hinge line. If the horns were the same basic width, I would conclude that they were just mixed up in packaging but the elevator horn has a much wider shank than the rudder and the rudder horn spans wider between the holes, so they are obviously not interchangable. I inserted the rudder horn into the elevator slot and the holes lined up exactly with the hinge line. I couldn't do the same with the elevator horn/rudder, but just holding it up at the bottom of the hinge line shows that the holes line up on that one, too. That's a weird reversal but I wouldn't dare install these the way they are.

The horns pictured in the manual appear to have their holes lined up with the hinge line.

Looks like I am going to have to manufacture a set locally.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Mine are similar... the rudder a little ahead of the hingeline and the elevator a little behind... but I'm not second guessing it... perhaps because the servo arms will not be as wide as the horns, the offset is required.

mocgp

Maybe true with the rudder as it is 50 mm on center, but the elevator is 40 mm on center, matching the servo arms. I am going to bench test your theory on the rudder before I glue in the horn. I'll let you know what I find out.

mocgp

Well, have you flown it yet ?????

I discovered that the 10 mm difference between the servo arm and the control horns doesn't make a lot of difference, even with the 90 degree twist. But my wires exited the fuselage in a much different location than the instructions show. Glad I measured first and didn't follow the instructions. Something else I'm having to re-engineer is the elevator joiner. When I put the elevators on it, the alignment is absolutely horrible. More cutting and fitting and trimming so they line up and I can actually manage to insert the joiner after sticking it through the fuse.

My batteries didn't show up today so I guess I won't be test flying this Sunday. Anxious to hear if you have put some wind under your wings yet.