Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I don't see it up yet... probably a day or two...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

The review has been posted...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=848

YakPak

Maudib

Great review, you did a lot of work on it.

I am not sure how to connect the battery to the esc.

The battery has a Deans female connector, however I would like to use an extension with a Deans male connector.

The question is how do I connect the esc leads to the extension. Can i just solder them together or is there a connector I should be using?

Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

You can solder the ends together and shrink tube them...

YakPak

thanks Maudib, sorry for the dumb question, thought it was better to ask first.
Cheers
Yak Pak

tommydaspad

I got one of these yak's recently, i installed an Energ C35-26 870 motor with a 13x6.5 prop on a 3s 3300, i get about 6 1/2 mins 3d flight drawing about 39 amps about 400 watts, but i may get more time if i set speed contoller up properly.

She flys very well, very precise in FAI style areo's and fantastic at 3d, altho i'm not. It elevators with no wing rock right side up or inverted and is very stable in high alpha.

A winner in my book.

Tom

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

For those of you just getting this plane... youmay have to set your ESC to the proper cell count. Some 3 cell users are having the ESC cut out because it's set to 4S lipo and the low voltage cutoff is coming into play.

There are better ESC programming instructions on the QQ site under downloads...

YakPak

Thanks maudib

The manual says Factory default settings are 3s (ESC wth BEC) I guess we assume that is incorrect.
I went on the Towers site and could not find the program to adjust on my computer.
Where can I buy that program?
Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Unless you have Hacker's new USB programming device it won't help...

It may or may not be defaulted to 3s... mine was defaulted to 4s and a few people have brought it to Quique's attention that theirs was too... only way to know is enter the programming mode...

The manual link on Quique's site goes through the steps to program:

In a nutshell, turn on your transmitter and put the throttle to full... turn on the ESC and wait for abotu 5 seconds... you'll hear 2 low and 2 high tone to let you know you are in program mode.

You will then hear a series of tones... each series represents a setting... dropping the throttle during that series selects that option. You can only change ONE setting per turn on. SO after you drop the throttle... if you need to change aor check another setting... you will have to unplug the battery (not just switch it off) and replug it in with the throttle at the top again.

Right after the first 4 "program" tones and before you hear any other tones, if you drop the throttle it will toggle the brake setting. Mine defaulted to off which is what you want.

The next series of beeps is the battery type/Lipo Cell Count... when it is in the middle of the selection you want... drop the thottle... WARNING: each tim you make a selection, the ESC goes out of program mode into regular mode and the motor will run now by moving the throttlestick forward!


Here are the battery setting (Voltage Cut-off) beeps:


NiCd: . . . . . (5 beeps)
2 Lipos: (5.8V) .. .. .. .. .. (5 double beeps)
3 Lipos: (8.7V) ... ... ... ... ... (5 triple beeps)
4 Lipos: (11.6V) .… .… .… .… .… (etc)
5 Lipos: (14.5V) .…. .…. .…. .…. .….

If you let it pass these sets of beeps without moving the throttle down to make a selection, no change will be made and it will move to the next setting/set of beeps . (see the ESC manual on Quique's download page.)

YakPak

Maudib,

Almost ready to go, however have an interference problem.

Where do I start?

Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

post some pics of your reciever install.... my first thought is that it's pull-pull on both elevator and rudder.... where is your antenna run?

Also do you have another receiver to test?

YakPak

Maudib,

Took some pictures, how do you post them?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

At the bottom of the messag window is a "Click here to upload images and files! " link...

A window pops up with browse buttons for each pic... then when you've select them... you click "OK" and it begins ot upload them...

It goes back to your message window... type your message and click OK

YakPak

Maudib,

The pictures said they were uploaded so hopefully you get them, if not I am going to add onto an e-mail to you.
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Things look pretty good...

Try taking the antenna and instead of doubling back like you have it, try running it out the side onto the wing... (you can leave the canopy off for now and just secure the antenna with a piece of tape on top of the wing. This is just to test direction. Thqat doubliong back of the antenna is really a touch and go thing...

If that doesn't help... try removing one servo/lead fromt he receiver at a time and try a range test... sometimes a servo or lead can cause RF.

Try replacing the extension you have on the ESC to the receiver...

Also flip your ESC over... the metal plate is actually a heat sink and should be in the open for better cooling.

Everything else looks fine...

Let me know what the results are...

YakPak

Maudib,

Well I did what was on the list, still have intereference.

The only thing I noticed is that when only the elevator or rudder was connect to the rx I had no intereference, when both were plugged in I had intereference.

Inspected and replaced one of the servos, didn't make a difference.

Any suggestions?

Would 2.4ghz take care of these issues?

Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

You swapped out one servo... now how about swapping out the other with the first one you took out... just to test....

Did you run the anyenna straight out the wing for a test?

I beleive that 2.4 will indeed solve a lot of RF issues as it's pretty resilient to that stuff... but there is no guarantee...

YakPak

Maudib,

I swapped servos and ran the antenna out the wing, still had issues. I suspect my FM rx has something to do with it. Anyway once you start putting in new parts it doesn't take long to get to the price of a new Spektrum radio. So I went ahead, put in a new Spekrtum system and glitch free. It probably cost me a few more bucks to go this way, but now I don't have to worry about rf intereference and can fly my little Yak worry free, that's worth something to me.

Anyway, always appreciate your advise Maudib.
Cheers Yak Pak

YakPak

Maudib,

Well maiden is over with. What a great flying plane. I have seen a few comments from other people in the past that they felt QQ planes were a little expensive. Once you get it in the air you will quickly realize they are worth every penny and then some. This plane flies great and is a lot of fun.

Where can I get after market CF wing tubes, (another project I am working on).

Thanks
Yak Pak

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Try QQ... they may sell the tube separately... if not you might use a stab tube from Graphtec sold by Troy Built Models.

THe price is now at $149.95 and with the size and nice features like a true hatch latch and awesome tailwheel... it's priced right in there with the rest...

netdudeuk

And in rip-off Britain the price is £149.99 when the dollars for pounds rate has never been better. Twice the price ?? He'd sell a lot more if it was sold at a more reasonable price over here. Sam Walton found that he made more money selling more for less than less for more.

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Hey, i have a question that conserns any one using a lighter hacker motor.

I have an A30-16m would that be too small or lacking in power. Im not one trying to 3d it all the time because im more into the precison pattern flying.



Thanks Michael