I & C Tech

Steve, It's on the page you're missing. It says: "Also experiment with your CG to find the best position for a locked in feel. Our favorite position is a half- inch behind the main spar. Again, this is personal preference." I believe there was a link in here somewhere once for the .pdf manual. It has color pics and everything. Does anyone remember that link??

davelong9050

Steve,

Here is an excerpt from page 24 (the last page) that relates to CG..........."our favorite position is 1/2" behind the main spar."

In addition, after reading through the thread, I picked up the following from different contributors: 1/4 to 1/2" from behind the main spar tube, 1" behind the yellow strip on the bottom of the wing and 1/2 to 1" behind the spar.

I set mine at 5 3/4" from the leading edge which is about 1/4" behind the main spar and this got me in the ballpark. I expect to fly 3 flights tomorrow and will know more.

Hope this helps.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks, guys.

I suppose the starting throws are on that page too? So it goes to Page 24, and that's it? I wasn't really sure. I know we've been over this earlier, but I was quite unimpressed with the manual. The pictures are dark and hard to see, for one thing. Too many Xerox copies, I expect...

Anyone got the starting throws handy? In inches, please. I have to wonder why the latest rage seems to be degrees (what's wrong with inches???); but all my deflection gauges/meters are in inches.

I&C, I printed out that pdf file/color manual back when I became interested in the model. Its on the EF web site. Come to think of it, I could have looked there for this info, eh? When I printed it out, it stopped printing at page 17; I have no clue why. I mentioned this to Chris in a phone call a few days later, and he didn't seem too concerned one way or another. So... could have been my system at work. With all the filters, not to mention the Nobel prize winners who administer the system, it does some really screwy things sometimes.

Anyway, with the exception of balancing and getting the battery tied down wherever it needs to be, she's ready to fly. I'll do some trim work, put a few decorations/stickers on her, but nothing elaborate, such as the words supplied to go across the ailerons. Today was an absolutely gorgeous day, but I stayed in working on buttoning this puppy up. Let us hope next week-end is as kind.

I & C Tech

Steve, Here is page 24 for ya. It is in degrees though. I just max out my throws and put in heaps of exponential. Page 24:

A few words about set-up and trimming
Proper set-up and trimming is absolutely essential to achieve optimum
performance from your aircraft. In addition to balancing your aircraft at the
recommended CG position, we highly recommend that you balance the aircraft
laterally. Use stick-on lead weight under the wing tip to achieve proper lateral
balance.
We recommend the following control surface throws:
Elevator: Low rate: 8 degress both directions
High rate: At least 45 degrees both directions
Ailerons: Low rate: 15 degrees both directions
High rate: 35-45 degrees both directions
Rudder: Low rate: 15 degrees both directions
High rate: As much as possible
Depending on your personal preferences, you will probably want to use a fair
amount of exponential to soften the feel of the aircraft around center stick
position on high rates. The rudder on the Yak is extremely powerful. If you
experience severe coupling in high alpha knife edge, you probably need to
reduce your high rate rudder setting. The Yak is capable of very slow high alpha
knife edge with minimal coupling. Experiment to find the setting that works best
for you. If you are new to 3D or are having trouble locking in to high alpha flight,
you may wish to mix a small amount of spoileron in with up elevator input. This
will cause the ailerons to raise with up elevator input and will help to stabilize the
aircraft in high alpha attitudes. Also experiment with your CG to find the best
position for a locked in feel. Our favorite position is a half- inch behind the main
spar. Again, this is personal preference.
The Yak-54 has very large control surfaces. It is very important that you
exercise throttle management at all times when flying this aircraft. Full
throttle should be reserved for vertical lines only. The engine should be at idle
when the aircraft is pointed down.
Take your time and devote the first several flights to properly trimming your
aircraft and you will be rewarded with an incredible flying machine. Thanks again
for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 68� Yak-54. See you at the flying
field!

lex2bits

My Feedback: (12)

Can't get to the EF site for some reason. Here's an alternative site.

http://epowerflight.com/rcu/yak/EFYak.htm

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks, I&C.

So, does anyone have the starting throws in inches?

Anybody?

ScaleRules

My Feedback: (5)

Hi JR3D,

I haven't built mine yet but I was planing on using the 5645s but have decided to go with the faster 5625s instead. Both are metal gear and the 5625 even on 4.8V is 110 oz so that meets EF's recomended 90oz or larger. On 6.0v the 5625 is .04 seconds faster. Either would be good I think. The JR8611 is way overkill I think and here in Canada they are $150.00 each compared to $69.00 eachfor either the 5625 or 5645.

davelong9050

Steve,

Aileron is 3/4", Elevator is 1/2" and Rudder is 1 3/4"

Hope this helps.

scottfl78

That sounds good.. Most manuals are in degrees and I just eyeball it and go with my gut.. Now I fly it with 35 degrees on everything except rudder which is full.. I have my expo maxed out.. I do't recommend you start with this though.. If you start at:

Aileron is 3/4", Elevator is 1/2" and Rudder is 1 3/4" You will have plenty of control if your CG is on the wingtube or a half inch behind it.. One more thing pull your wings and mark the underside at your wing tube with a sharpie marker or something.. I wouldnt use the covering as a reference point do to possible manufacturing differences in the ultrakote..

scottfl78

Also about the manual.. I found the pictures to be dark as well but overall the manual was good enough for me.. I have found that the more advanced the plane the less detailed the manual.. I guess they expect building skills to go along with flying skills.. Thats why this is a good thread cause we can answer all of the new Yak'ers questions from experience.. good luck and be prepared to have a smile that a belt sander can't take off..

davelong9050

Scott,

Do you use "Flight Modes" (JR's termonology for using one switch to limit all flight surfaces) for DR or do you control DR for each surface with each of the 3 DR switches or do you have one rate with a ton of expo?

ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

Anyone flying this with an O.S. 160 FX or the 140 RX? Would either of these be too much motor?

Sprink

finally got to maiden mine on Saturday

two very nice flights, I am impressed. Harriers are a bit wobbly, but I need to spend some time fine tuning the trimming and set up.

I let a mate have a go, and he was very impressed too (he now only flys 2m planes and up). He really liked that the spins and snaps would just start and stop.

The YS 110 has no trouble pulling this bird around, had a go at a torque roll (went well), then straight up.

Can't wait for next weekend, more flying needs to be done

Ian.W

glad it went good sprink. What servos are you running?

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks, guys.

Set-up and balance tonight, a few stickers and fuel-proofing tomorrow night, and she's ready.

Scott, I'm no cherry at this game. Yes, the manual did provide sufficient information to assemble the model (except for my missing page ). I suppose I expected a bit more of a professional presentation than stapled Xerox sheets.

Whatever; the kit is worth the money, and that's all that really matters, eh?

screwed over

Chris Hinson
I apologize for the comment in post #2232 68" Yak thread. I sincerely regret the comment I made in reference to your rejects.
Upon further research your planes are truly a cut above the rest.
Your commitment to this hobby is appreciated and I think you are a very honest business person dedicated to selling a quality product.
I hope in the near future to buy some of your products.

scottfl78

160fx?? yeah some guys have them.. Probably has equal or greater power than a Saito 180.. I bet they go like a bat out of heck Read back a few pages and you will find someone with the 160fx in it..

Tram

My Feedback: (6)

Does anyone have a model of this bird for AeroFly Pro??

jeang

Yeah Im flying with a 160FX and loving every bit of it.It as tons of power,wieght came at 9 pound 4.8oz dry I could prolly bring that under 9 by going pitts muffler and to a diffrent RX pack.

later

jeang

scottfl78

no but there is a comp arf Yak-55 or some thing that is the same scheme with pretty close lines.. I think I got it from the aeroflypro.com site http://aeroflypro.com/ipw-web/bullet...wtopic.php?t=5 I think this link is the one I have.. It looks close.. If this one is different I will upload the model to my website.. Ill be back in OK this evening.. Let me know if this one has the same scheme cause the one I have is identical.. peace

Sprink

Trying the new Hitec Karbonite digis - 6965 on ailerons and elevators, 6985 on rudder (over 10kg of torque to hold that big rudder in place )

I have a mini on throttle, mounted on the engine box.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Steve , I hope your maiden goes well, It should fly straight off the board. Mine needed a 1/32" right aileron for straight hands off takeoff. I run my Elevator at neutral for flight 1/32 down for landing, and 1/16 up for what may become a signature move ...the "Hands OFF - TakeOff".


Sprink, I would like to know how those Karbonite servos hold up....the Metal gears slop around when they get a few hours on them. The Karbonites are not supposed to do that. I just hope they hold up for the most extreme g-forces....Pop-up, blenders, walls. Let us know after you thrash 'er about a bit and check them out.

Flyersg, I am thinking about making my Yak-54 #2 into an E-machine. Your setup seems to work well, and I may copy the same. I have a question, with such a large set of cells, do you change packs between flights, or is this a permanent installation and recharging must be done in the plane?? Seems like a lot of battery to play with. I am no stranger to Li-po flight, but charging that up must be chore, and make multiple flights even more so. What is a typical # of flights you get when you go out? I really want a taste of a big E-plane at least once and this seems to be the plane to do it in.

flat spin

The new Hitecs are superb. No slop whatsoever after 4 months of flying doing full speed snaps and more recently Aneurysms. They are also a bit lighter so you loose about 8g's off the tail.

Today I got an e-mail from a guy who has an electric setup, he is running an Axi and it has come out at 8 1/2 Lb's. He reckons he could ad another 3 cells and still be under 9 1/2. Unbelievable. still I can't see myself giving up my YS in a hurry, that engine is fualtless[8D]

Mike Parsons

Boss,
The cells must be removed from the plane. Especially for charging. In case of a mishap it would be bad enough to loose the pack, but catastrophic to loose everything. A battery tray is constructed and the batteries are held in with Velcro. In my case it is lite ply and Flyersg is the honeycomb. Alot of the pattern planes are using the honeycomb trays and some are utilizing Carbon Fiber. Both of those are extremely nice.
It takes me about one hour to completely charge my 8S3P. This is where multiple packs come in. Of course that is more $.
I get two 8 minute flights of really pushing it off of one charge and can extend that further depending on throttle usage.
A conversion article on the Yak should be up on RCU soon.

Flyersg,
Question I have..did you make the honeycomb or is it prebought? I have been leaning towards the 87" Yak for E conversion (Hacker C50 15xl, 10S3P, HM90) and would like to incorporate this or a CF platform into it.

Thanks

-Mike

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Atlantae ,

Duh, if the Lipo melts down, so does plane, doh. 8S3P!!! man that is some monster pack...and yup, monster dough. But I like E-flight, and I can get YS performance with a llittle investment, and not have to wipe it down.......I am there.

So far I am only using 3S1P store bought packs...and a Triton and have had no problems caused by the equipment, so go E on a 68" er looks like a possibility here.

I finally got a digital camera to replace my broken one.....I will post pics of my Yak fleet , parts and all soon...including parts from the wrecks.