at least it pulled through if it had been hard it would have probably tore it up more.

You say it wasnt flying right? what happend? motor? or trim/CG etc?

Oh... don't like the sound of that! We'll take a hard look at ours too... but I want to hear your answer to drumbum... what does "not flying right" mean?

And you missed the landing because....?

There has to be a guiney-pig... you're it

Just a reminder, you probably already have... you need fuel tube keepers on those rudder clevises... the one's up by the servo arm...

As far as not flying right most likely was my inexperience in flying new models. This would have been the first airplane that I maiden-ed.
Usually a flying buddy of mine does my maiden flights and set trims but he could not make it out to fly today due to other commitments.
It just seemed a little squirrelly to me and I wanted to get it back on the ground before something happened.
I was coming around on final to the grass strip and misjudged where the airplane was in relationship to the ground and strip.
Put it down on the far end of the strip which is very rough. The field I was flying at was a landfill and has allot of settling going on
therefore pot holes and dips occur all the time. The smoothest part of the runway is in front of the pilots stands which was were I wanted to go
but did not end up there.
Most likely the problem was the loose nut behind the controller. When I get the damage fixed than I will have my friend re-fly the airplane and
see what he thinks.
Here are some pictures of the minor damage that occurred.
John

not bad to fix.

2 pieces are better than 50

Actually you should be glad it busted out as it did... could have been a LOT worse if they hadn't busted out.

A 2 bolt gear like that gets a lot of leverage on the type of landing you mentioned... catching grass or the edge of the field puts so much stress on those two bolt holes..

I think I'd sand it down, glue a 1/8" ply plate to the inside and fill the holes with epoxy & milled fiberglass... then when set redrill the holes right where they were.

I would welcome this type of damage anytime over the alternative... the gear plate could have ripped out taking formers with it... the plane could have nosed over hard and busted up the cowl and prop, maybe even busted loose the firewall, flipped over and damaged the rudder...

All in all.. the best damage to have experienced is what happened to you...

Well progress is coming along great on mine,NICE and STRAIGHT!!,,, I should be ready after it thaws out here in a couple of weeks..[8D]

here are some pics

Glad to hear it DrumBum...

Maybe there was just a couple fluke planes...

HA HA now the wheels are funny!! they are so out of round it would hop like a rabbit[sm=lol.gif]

found the perfect place to store them and the tailwheel assy.. the trash can.

i used some left over foam wheels from a U-Can-DO. and tailwheel Assy.


Im still laughing!!!

I thought that I might have been one of the few who received wheels that were so out of round that I knew instantly they were going in the trash. Looks like it might be more than just a few of us. I also replaced the main wheels and tail wheel. I also had to replace the axles. The threaded part broke loose from the shaft while tightening it to the landing gear. First time that ever happened to me.

yea i have to get a new tailwheel assy. i was modding mine to have the bend that locks the rudder like normal gear and the rod broke.. also the screw wouldnt hold the rod allowing it to spin around i tried to mod that by flattening the area aoud the screw and when testing it the plastic broke so i chuked it too.. i ended up using wheels from U-can-do #2 i have i used all hardware from U-can-do #1 on #2. I also had to cut all of the 4-40 bolts that go in the pants because they were so long they would stop the wheels. it would have been to long on the stock wheels too.. I mounted my engine and when i pulled the cowl out of the package i noticed the paint was wet when they put it in the bag causing bag marks all over the cowl. after cuting the cowl i noticed it is still fingerprinting and is not fully cured. I also used the great planes adjustable mount that came with the U-can-do. It weighs the same but i like the alignment marks they have for centering. I was also going to mount my 91 4stroke inverted but aborted that attempt since to get it on the centerline there wasnt enough firewall.

Lets hope its flight preformance makes up for some of the short comings in the quality.

i have a feeling if i can keep it near the 7 lb mark i will love it.. I have a world models cap21 with a G-38 i havent flown since 1992. i liked the way it manuvered exept the 21s are REAL snappy. this one is supposed to be more solid. if it is i will love it. caps are capable of some wild tumbling manuvers. If it truns out to be aplane that goes to the field everytime i will have to see if i can get another cowl. Im sure that fuel will make this one look ugly after a while.. I might take it to work since i paint cars and put it in on a few bake cycles to see if it will harden up some. i remember the old black baron epoxy paint used to take forever and a day to cure. and if epoxy paint goes under a certain temp before curing it will hang in limbo until temp is brought up to a high temp. works the same on cars with epoxy primer so its worth a try. my booth bakes at 160 deg.

After a couple of hard landings with my Laser 200 and ripping out the gear mount plate and more, I discovered the wonder and beauty of nylon bolts! I had the grass and mud suck the landing gear right off a few weeks back and all that broke were the nylon bolts - nothing else.

Nylon bolts are your friend....


chasman

I have a question on the fitting of the engine cowl. The manual calls out for the prop hub face to be 5 1/2 inch. from the firewall (mounting plate). When I test fit mine I find that when the cowl is on to where it will not slide on any further is 4 1/2. Has anyone else had this as an issue? (measured to the center hole of the cowls forward face).

Chasman

remember we are to go boldy not blindly where no man has gone before

This issue was discussed in a previous post. It looks like it should be in the 5”to5-1/8” range. Not the 5-1/2” the manual calls for. I set mine at 5”

i did not tun across this problem. with mine. I set my motor at recomended position and cowl fits fine.

Richyp, your Cap Maniac with skis is all right! I wanted to ask you more about how the plane is doing with the Mag 120 on it? I read your flight info, but wanted to see if there was more you could add to it. I ask because I have two engine choices on hand (no new purchase !) a Saito 72 and a Saito 120. The 72 is 450g (.99 lb) and the 120 is 900g (1.98 lb) not to mention the size and power diffs of each. So any info you can add would be great.


...the wheels on this are like eggs...

THx

Chasman

[sm=lol.gif]

sounds like you got a good set. mine may as well been square

Hi chasrb
I took the cap up on another flight two weeks ago. So far I really like the way it handles. On past post someone contacted BME and they said, “The tendency for snapping has been reduced to a minimum. Even if you pull elevator quickly during level flight, it will not snap unless you have some crosswind effect.”

Well I just had to try it, and sure enough some where above mid throttle I pulled full up elevator and it didn’t snap off to the side like so many of my other planes do.

Point rolls were clean and crisp. Landing were smooth (still have my skies on)

The Magnum 120 is still running rich on the low end and when I throttle down it wants to die. I haven’t brought it down to hover yet until its adjusted right. Now that I have ½ doz tanks of fuel through it I will start to lean in the low end.

Last weekend we had another snowstorm with strong winds so flying was out.
Temperatures down in the single digits.

Hoping to take it up again this weekend.
I will keep you posted

Okay, now that I am really leaning toward putting the Saito 120 in this plane, the 1.20 is longer that the 5.125 that the cowl measures out to the front. I can not set the 1.20 back any further because of the carb - doesn't matter if it's inverted or sideways. Hummm the Saito 72 I have on hand could work, but would probably be somewhat lacking in performance.

So the Saito 100 is now a purchase contender....

Question: You used the Dubro iso mount on your frame right? Di you set it at the 64 mm as spec in the manual?

Thx
Chasman

Hi chasrb
No, I could not get the 120 back far enough to the firewall with the supplied mount. I modified a mount that I had left over from another plane which allowed me to but the engine to the fire wall and set the cowl 5-1/8”out.
Here are a few pics of the install.

The great planes mount i am using would not allow me to mount inverted. i see yours was tight at the top of the firewall too.. mine was close enough to have to cut a side off of the blind nuts so i opted for the stock location side mount.

BTW. I am at the point on mine where i am ready for my radio gear and I will be done.. oh and glue my canopy on
I ended up using a Dubro tailwheel assy. I have always been fond of the bent rod through a hole in the rudder for steering instead of screw mounts. I just dont trust em[8D]

oh hey richy what kind of arm did you use on your pull pull servo. Im gonna try the RED Hitec arm they are around 1 1/2"..
since you have flown yours whats your opinnion on rudder sensitivity on the plane?

Hi Drumbum
The rudder servo arm I used was the black one from Hitec, 2-3/4”-2-7/8”wide. The rudder is very effective on this plane with the setup I have. Here are a few pics of the rudder servo and tail setup.

thanks