I purchased a Saito .82 for my Funtana 40 and have had some problems with break it in. This is my first 4s so I don't really know what should happen. I've ran one gallon of 15% Red Max fuel and can't sustain an idle below 4000 unless I keep my glow plug starter on and I just changed out the stock plug with and O.S. F. I have the low end turned just below flush with the throttle arm and the high end is about 2 1/4 turns out. I've also noticed that I burn a tank of fuel in about 4 minutes. I have a feeling that I'm way too rich but I don't really know. With glow starter I can idle at 2200 and top end is about 10000. Oh yeh, I'm using a 14 x 4w APC prop. Please help!

Thanks,
Chris

It sounds like your low end is rich. Can you try turning the low end in more and see if it will idle at a lower RPM without the glow driver?

But then you say the entire tank is burning in 4 minutes. So maybe the high end is too rich also. But you're getting 10000 top end? Man talk about a confusing engine. Try peaking the engine with and without the glow driver attached. What's the change in peak RPM?

it should turn the 14/4w faster than that sounds like both needles are rich

Saitos come factory set with a very rich low end setting. This is for the run in process. Once you have done the running in (20 to 30 minutes) then you need to tune the idle. All my saitos have needed at least 2 full turns in to get a good idle. You can start leaning it out after the first tank if you wish, say half a turn per tank.

In the past, to get over the tank lasting only 4 minutes, I have plumbed it straight into the fuel bottle. The draw on the saitos when rich is good enough to get away with this.

I concur.. Your low end maybe rich and drowning/cooling the plug in between compression strokes.. Lean the low end a bit and that ought to do it.. If you lean it out and still can't get it to idle maybe a plug with an idle bar might help.. Be advised that I don't know what plug lenghs that engine will accept but someone will if you have to go that route..

Make sure you use a OSF glow plug. My Saito 82, after breakin, has the main needle at 1 1/4-1 1/2 turns out, depending on the day. I was required to turn the low jet in about 2 turns but I can't remember how far out it is. I fly at 4800' so this may be a little lean if you are at a low elevation. But I can't imagine you needing to be anywhere more than about 1 3/4. Mine runs rich even at the 1 1/2 setting. I still see a great smoke trail and my muffler doesn't even turn brown. I get about 13 minutes out of the stock tank on a UCD 46. I think that is about 10 oz. My idle is about 2100-2200 RPM. That seems about comfortable. Any slower than that and you can have deadstick if you have a sustained approach. I think you'll like the engine when you get it tuned right. I run a APC 14x4W on mine and I believe it's the right prop.
Good luck.
Barry

I agree with all above that you are rich on both needles. I would also suggest you set your valves. I set mine right out of the box and then after the first gallon. Also use some throttle mgmt with the 14x4w prop. This is a good prop for that engine but will let it overspeed the engine if the nose is not pointed up.


David

Forgive my stupidity, but how do you set the valves and why do you do this? I forgot to mension this, but I also noticed that I sometimes get some air in my line going to my carb and it sometimes loses siphen. I checked all of my lines and tank and found no leaks. ??????

perhaps he means tappet clearance? if so you have to pull the valve cover.. YS recomends owners checking them against the specs in the manual every few gallons but I don't know about other manufacturers.. Maybe he is talking about some other valve..

Just how (MAX) fast should we turn the Saito 82 before damage would result?

My new 82 after 4 breakin tanks below 4000k, APC 13-4 wide 12200 and APC 14-4 wide 10200. I know thats a big difference but I might have played with the needle and need to do it again.

I was considering using the 13-4 w and limiting the throttle servo to not go over say 11000 so as to get he faster spool up of the 13-4 w prop.

Thanks, Dennis

RTFI!

(thats Read The F***ing Instructions)

Tells you all you need to know on how to set the valve clearance on the tappets. I do this after running in, and check after a gallon or two. I suggest buying a proper set of feeler gauges rather than trying to use the one supplied with the engine.

As for prop selection, go with the 14x4w. You are then using the engine to its best. 13x4w is wasting it.

I was talking about the tappet clearence. I set mine with the supplied gauge, It may not be perfect but has givin me zero problems. I set it so the gauge will drag slightly. That is has a little resistance when pulled back and forth.

The 13x4W is a waste on a .82. If your after a better spool up try a wooded 14x4 or 15x4. The light prop weight will help the throttle response.

I don't know the magic number for max RPM. I would guess anything over 10,700 in the ground is to much in the air. At least on a Saito.

CWHITE, Are you getting the bubbles while it's running or after you shut it off? This could be a tank height problem.


David

I'm gettin them while running, but not all of the time. I have foam all around the tank except on the stopper cap. I did have to carve on the stopper cap to get it through half way through the fire wall. I'm not sure why they made the hole so much smaller than the stopper cap. I'll also note that I ran this engine on the bench for the first four tanks and I had no problems and it would idle slow without a miss.?????? Thanks for your help.
Chris

I have had bubbles from the clunk before. Had a bubble problem with my Saito 91. Changed the fuel lines about 3 times, and wraped the tank in about 1/2 pound of foam with no differnce. Tried a different clunk - problem solved [&:]

Since then I have only ever used the Dubro sintered bronze clunks.

I would bet your getting some vibration from the tank hitting the firewall opening. I like to make the opening about 1/4" bigger than the stopper. Then put a bead of silicon around the stopper before I install the tank. Then when you push the tank into place the silicon
will form a little cushion around the area. That being said I have a .72 on a Pizzaz that gets small bubbles in the line after a flight. The fuel tubing has a 1/2 loop in it before it goes onto the carb nipple. I can see the bubbles in it after I land. I have well over 150 flights on it like this and it has caused no problems. So is it vibration,rugged flying, tank to tight? Who knows but the bubbles are small and don't seem to effect the engine.


david

Any estimate on the quantity of ounces needed for a good 20-30 minute run in at the recommended <4000rpm? I've got mine blubbering away on the back deck. ((I forgot to look at the clock.)) I use a 12 ounce tank on the stand. It may be a bit too rich, as crap is slinging all over the place. Exhaust is rains "Saito piss" everywhere, and the puke tube, well it's pukin'!!!

Maybe 4 (12 ounce) tanks?

For the record, even with temps in the teens and old as dirt fuel, the Saito started pretty well. I'm running it in on an APC 13x6 and will fly a 14x4 or 15x4, depending on what it runs like. Pro Zinger or APC, of course...[8D]

TT I didn't time mine. I just ran three tanks through it on the ground. Since it was going on a proven airframe I broke it in in the air. I just set the high end about 1,000 rpm rich from max rpm for the next 5 flights. Then a leaned it one click on each of the next flights till it was set at 300 RPM rich of max.

David

Sounds like a plan. I'll do three on the stand then slap it in a plane.

Thanks,