eranorit

I Fly my Extra 260 with Moki 210 with Perry pump .
A lot of power to do every thing. Great engine !!
Eran

tf2psycho

do any of you fly electric 3d or all of you gas heads because i used to fly nitro and i never could get the mix right too much air or too much gas whats the secret....
i hate the combustion engine even my 305 gm motor leaks oil

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

uhmmm...I'm not sure what this has to do with the Extra 260 27% by Hangar 9. Sounds like you need to try posting in the Beginner forum. Good luck!

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

lol, took the words out of my mouth.

at any rate, there's a guy here that converted his 260 to electric power. If i have cash to burn, I might do that, but for now, I love my DA50

tf2psycho

[&:][&:][&:][&:][&:] foker

Scott Dilley

My Feedback: (3)

Now that is not very nice!!!!! Meanie!!! Read the RED WORDS above where you type your posts.

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

Go back and read your post (#1240.) Then read the name of this thread. Then re-read your post. Then, re-read the name of this thread. You can appologise whenever you're ready.

If you can't get an engine to run well, you have learning curve issues to work-out. None of us were born knowing everything...even you. If you have questions about tuning an engine, go to a thread about your engine and ask some people who have the engine you are having trouble with to help you with yours. Why come here and flame me when I'm trying to help you?

Sheesh!

Good luck.

ps: You might want to consider some Anger Management therapy. Good luck with that too.

tf2psycho

[][&o][][&o][][&o]

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

On mine, both of the pull-pull wires rub on one of the rear bulkheads. This is even with the wires crossed properly. For those of you not using a gas motor, have you found this to be the case also?

EXTRA ADDICT

My Feedback: (2)

Yes I think everyone has had issues with the pull pull cables. I went in with a dremel tool and cut a slot in the former for the cables to run through and haven't had a problem. I didn't get a chance to fly mine this weekend the wind was hurricane force it felt like. I will go flying some this week after work though.

tIANci

Some mothers do really have them ... sad ... very sad.

Flyin Hawaiian

Hey Guys!

I thought I would share this with y'all. My Extra 260/ DA50 is flying great and very happy with this set-up. I feel it is a tad heavy but still, it is a blast to fly. It loves hi-alpha stuff and hovering. I Just got comfortable hovering the thing on the deck!

Last night I was doing some maintenance on it and found that the wing tube sock was loose. I could almost slide the thing all the way out. So I CA'd it back in place and check the fit of the wing tube and found that it had considerable up & down and side to side play. To fix this I used a single layer of trim tape wrapped around the wing tube, especially in the areas where the tube goes in the wing tube sock that is supported by the ply would structure in the fuse. No tape was put on where the wing tube goes in the wings because the fit was still reasonably tight. Everything tight again and ready for the flying field.

Have any of you guys experienced this situation yet?

Happy Hovering!



"I thank GOD for this hobby........I helps me to keep looking towards the skys of Heaven!"

Flyin Hawaiian

cstevec

I also had a problem with my rudder breaking at the leading edge where the counter balance meets the rudder. I just peeled back the covering reinforced it with balsawood stock ,CA and recovered it. I do not a "wag" problem as described by others in earlier posts, but I will tell you the rudder in this plane is very week and the balsawood very soft. Out the box the rudder was warped and was able to get it some what straight by heating up the Ultracote. I liked the Idea that you sheeted the whole rudder and I am thinking of ordering a new rudder, or build one from scratch, and sheeting it as well.

krokko

I'v been joggling between a DA50 and a SAITO 180 and from what I read I start beliving that maybe, just maybe, the DA50 is slightly overkill and that the SAITO is more proper for the construction of the plane. (Got mine today and have been ironing the whole afternoon).
A SAITO 220 would probably be more correct, but how many wngines should one buy to get 2x2 meter planes flying properly.
(I'm just a regular flyer, not much into 3D so I think the 180 would do, or, or?????)

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

So far, I'm with you. Mine's almost done with a Saito 180. I'll certainly get to maiden her within a week's time.

I already have 3D planes with insane power, and I bought this plane specifically for scale aerobatics. The 220 might be the best choice for this airframe, but I cannot comment from a position of first-hand knowledge...so I won't comment at all (at least for a week or so.)

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Well if it comes in at 12 pounds or so with the 180 it should be fine. I have seen a wide range of performance reports from the 180. I think some has to do with if you have right prop and 30% helli fuel or wrong prop and 10% nitro--and your elevation / location.

Can you balance this plane without adding lead to the nose with a 34oz motor/muffler?

With the right prop and fuel on a 12 pound plane the 180 should have unlimited vertical. No it won't be breathtaking, but more than enough to fly a BASIC or Sportsman IMAC sequence.

One mans "insane" power is another mans "adequately" powered--It is very subjective.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

to achieve that, you basically have to move the battery to the firewall. PM Matt (theDak) as he seems to be the resident expert when it comes to building light.

cstevec

My Feedback: (1)

That is EXACTLY where mine broke as well. I have mine powered with a ZDZ 40 and really put it through the ringer every now and then. I noticed when I assembled the plane that the rudder seemed kind of weak but then I forgot about it until we noticed it being broken at the field one day. I do some pretty violent blenders & snap rolls with the plane & my gut tells me that is what broke it. When I sheeted it I used very thin (1/32nd I think) balsa. The balsa by itself is really weak but when it is added to the structure of the rudder the whole assembly becomes much stronger.

I never noticed the "wagging problem people are talking about in this post. As far as I can tell, mine does not do that. I did notice that wind seems to buffet it around quite a bit.

krokko

I weighted everything out of the box today:

total with goodie bags push rods and clevises included: 3680gram = 9.859 pounds, SAITO 180= 880gram = 2.35 pounds
6 servos approx 420grams = 1.12 pounds + receiver, batteries cables I get a total of approx 5500 grams = 14.7 pounds

SAITO 180 still a good choice???

JAkridge

Krokko, You'll be liter than that complete. I'm at 12.5 with all the same setup. Saito 180, 5645's everywhere. HS 81 thott. "But" I am using a Dura Lite bat setup.
IMO, you won't get over 13 with the Saito 180...... unless they hid a brick in the plane.. The Dak was able to keep under 12 LB w/ the big OS. I don't know how, but he did it, and I bet it flys good.
One thing................ put everything you can toward the nose.

And again IMO "YES" the 180's fine. I would have left mine with the 180 if I did'nt need it for another plane.

Good Luck

STG

My Feedback: (26)

If your scale is correct @ 9.85 pounds, that is exactly what I was afraid of with this plane. There would be some with dense wood that were heavier. I was thinking about using an OS1.6 and if I started with a 9.85 pound plane I would end up very close to 14.35 pounds. With a 180 or YS160 I would be at 13.75 pounds.

krokko

The scale is absolutely correct! I use a weight watchers scale, you can't get any closer the that! After looking at the build I dont consider putting o a 50cc on any moore. The rudder is too weak, (ref to earlier comments) some of the reinforcements in the wing for the DB pin hinges came loose while I was fitting them. I belive I have to add some CA and Epoxy here and ther to keep the thing together. So,I'll stick with the SAITO 180 and hope it will fly well. I'm a little bit dissapointed! Having put together a GP Patty W and lately a Cuique S Yak-54 72" I think this one is not living up to my expected Q standards. (Not to mention comparison with my Composite-ARF Extra 2.30, but of course the price tag is then much higher).

thedak

My Feedback: (21)

I just balance @ 5 1/4" with an OS 1.60FX and a Bisson BGX Pitts. Anything farther forward forget it. You can't possibly weigh that much. I'm @ 11lbs 13.25ozs AUW. I am using a Li-ion, lightened spinner backplate, Foam wheels and I cut the floor of the hatch out. If you use a NIMH and a regular backplate you might get close to 5" but @ the cost of weight and with a 180 I would definately try to keep it as lite as possible. My pull-pull cables rub the bulkhead too. I dremeled some of the wood away but they still touch slightly.

Matt

STG

My Feedback: (26)

If his scale is correct the bare weight of his plane is as much as 1.85 pounds more than yours was--9.85 pounds Your motor and muffler is a good 6oz more than his, so I don't know how he is going to get his GG forward without adding weight? Possibly putting the elevator servos up front?

Krokko, next time you go to the market bring a long a weight that you think is 10 pounds and have them weigh it on their commercial scale.(I think in the USA they have to be calibrated weekly by law) then you will have a good standard to use on your weight watchers scale for around 10 pound measurements.

I have a 2.5,5& 10 pound weight that I had weighed on 2 different commercial scales that I use as standards when I weigh stuff. That way I know for sure my scale is good at 2.5,5,7.5,10,12.5,15 and 17.5 pounds.

Banche

HA HA HA THAT IS PRETY COOL THAT I SYARTED THE POST WITH LIKE 1000+ OTHERS POSTS ON THE 260!!!!

OH WELL TOC YAK FOR ME INSTEAD