FlyEng

My Feedback: (5)

Aerobob,

What brand and type of tape?

Well swapped out the HS 81 on the throttle. I used an FMA-S200 thats been laying around awhile. It's plenty strong but a little slow. If I don't like it, I'll change it again. It's still a small servo but quite a bit more robust. Should get a chance to check things out tomorrow if the weather holds.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

ive been using this stuf from michaels craft world called industrial 6000. ive used it on robart hinges, canopys, holding landing gear in blocks and a few other uses. and its some strong stuff.. OH and it dont foam (hince gorrella glue)

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

heres what it looks like

http://www.creative-wholesale.com/E6000.htm

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I'll have to check at the store tomorrow, as I only had the roll of tape in a baggie. The advantage to the tape method is no glue drying/curing time, and I don't have to worry about not handling the thing while that happens. The test will be heat/vibration, of course, and I'll report back whatever I find.

BTW - I have a 5 cell, 1900SCR NiCad from Hangtime (NO BS Batteries).... Steve there knows his stuff. I got the dual leads version, running through two Maxx HD switches.
Gotta tell ya - I could actually see a difference just cycling controls on the bench. The NiMh on one switch must have been loading down (it was a higher impedance, NON Hangtimes battery). I've seen the light on NiMh impedance now, and understand what that internal resistance thing actually LOOKS like.

Gonna be good, I think.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Bob,

I went to the Smart-Fly power expander and Super regulator and twin 2400MaH Fromeco Li-Ions all on 18 guage wire with deans connectors and saw a huge difference in control surface movement so I can relate. In the end I added 3.5 ounces and all servos get 6 volt and the receiver gets 5.0 volts and all are filtered. It's nice when you have I4C digital voltmeters on each battery and you see a it reading 8.3 volts and when you move all the surfaces together rapidly the readout changes to 8.1 volts and stays there until all movement stops. NO fluctuation at all, just solid readouts. Not to shabby.

I just kept getting nervous putting 8 digital servos through a receiver with 22 guage wiring.

I'm usually for the K.I.S.S. method but after seeing the effects of this same setup on my WH Ultimate I had to change it. I can say with all honesty that the plane does fly better with this setup and I'm still just a tad over 16lbs

Before anyone says anything. I have the voltmeters plugged into the charge plus on the regulator so I am seeing true voltage and not regulated voltage which I would see if I plug into the DSC plug on the regulator

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Bill - the power system you described sounds pretty high tech, but if you like it, and it works.... why not? I'm not one to say someone "must" use a particular ANYTHING. There are just so many options that mostly work, it's good for us to read about all the different techniques.

I finally weighed in the monster with the porker Fuji 50EI with it's stock exhaust system. Everything stock out of the box except I subbed a DB spinner (saved 4.5 oz there). All up weight, truly RTF, prop spinner, interplanes, you know - READY to fly..... 16 lbs. 3 oz.

This weight is with the NiCad 5 cell, 1900SCR cells, which ain't lightweights by any stretch.

It also is with JR metal gear servos ALL around, also not the lightest choice out there (3 of them are 8611's in the tail), and I used metal 4-40 all thread on the ailerons, Dubro Ball Links and Locking Kwik Link clevises all round. Also not the lightest choice. And the almost 2 oz Tru Turn tapped spinner bolt is on the front, too.

All things considered, I'm happy with the weight. Now it remains to be seen if I will be happy with the MOTOR.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Carpet tape.... double-stick, fiberglas weave....
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...archId=1260602

thevirginian

Guys, let me pre-warn you what will happen if you accidentally spill gasoline over our inside of the fuse. IT WILL EAT UP THE STYROFOAM before you can blink with your eye. Happend to me[]. So what did I do: No big deal, I thought, replace the styrofoam by cutting 1.5" wide strips and glue them in with carpenters glue. Said and done. Perfect job.[sm=sunsmiley.gif] Next day I looked and found the top of the fuse outside turned into a washboard[X(]. So, I had to strip the MonoKote off and recover the top with a sheet of 1/16 balsa. After that and a lot of sanding I could recover the deck and all is fine. A lot of reduntant work for nothing, though. No my styrofoam is protected with a light skin of fiberglass. Luckily the added weight is insignificant.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Dang!!! Virginian!!! Now what caused you to do that? Have you flown it yet?
No flying for us here today. Perfect blue skies, but the wind is gusting to 40+ this afternoon
My first day off in 3 weeks and THIS!!!![&o]
Oh well, I'm just happy to be off work.
Sorry about your mishap with the foam.

Balsa Steel

My Feedback: (3)

How did you guys plumb your aileron servos? Do I need to Y connect the right upper and lower to (Futaba 8U) ch.1, and the same for the left to ch.7? I wanted to cheat and Y them all to ch.1, but something tells me 4 s3305's would be too much draw for one receiver port. This is my first model with 4 aileron servos. Thanks.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

It recommends a "y" in each wing... and that will work pretty well, if you need to. Just be REALLY accurate on your control horn and linkage geometry. Try to match your servos as much as possible. You should be fine.

Regards all those servos on the Rx - what I'm doing, and seems good this time - is a two-lead battery, with two switches, and just plugging the extra switch lead into an empty channel. If you don't have an empty channel, you can use (or make) a really heavy duty short Y, and plug in your throttle servo and the extra battery there. Either will work.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

The BOAT ANCHOR actually RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Meaning that I have the Fuji 54EI now running. Kinda lame for a 46cc motor - only turns my 50cc benchmark prop ( BME 21 x 8) at 6250, that's after about 2 hours. Breaking in with 50:1 Stihl (like my Taurus), really touchy needles but running and starting pretty good.

Strange how the compression is coming UP after each run.... weird....but... it's a FUJI "Boat Anchor"...hot restarts on the 5th or 6th flip, usually.... probably will get better when the low end is leaner...Plug looks great, and it's a very smooth runner.

Maiden next w.e., I hope.

(Kenny - email me about getting together with our Ultimates....)

thevirginian

aerobob,
my F 50 BT turns a 20x10 about 7 grand. That's it. And that's only after it was broken in.
My styrofoam mishap happened when I tried to fill the tank a little with gasoline while the airplane was upside down. Gasoline squirted out of the overflow line directly into my open fuselage.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

What brand 20 x 10?

I think many of us have done the overflow into the fuse trick....

thevirginian

I have a Mejzlik 20x10 on my Eagle with the F 50-BT on its nose.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Interesting! Thanks!

Flyjets

My Feedback: (51)

Hi Guy's

Can anyone tell me if they tried a Saito 220 on this GP Ultimate??

Also what about the Evolution 45 Gas Motor??

Thanks
Ian

thevirginian

I'd say either should work just fine.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Guys - in keeping with my fundamental principles of McGyver-ism, abject-laziness, shade-tree mechani-king, and INCREDIBLE frugality, I'm seeking some kind of method to use the plywood cabane "handle" ALSO as a support when assembling the bird. At the field, it's lots simpler to just flip her over, bolt on the bottom wing, THEN begin the "top wing wrestle".... Don't want another piece to cart from shop to van, load/unload (violates principle 2). Don't want to spend any money (violates principle 4). Has to be something that looks really bizarre, but obviously works (supports principle 1)....

I have some ideas about modifying the ply handle, but would welcome any other ideas!

(All ideas must fully support the principles stated above.....)

jeyre

Sorry it took so long to get back on here. That whole pesky work thing and the I had not fully recovered from my loss (see earlier report). I have my new Ultimate (two point oh) in my shop, I will hopefully begin construction this weekend.

The clips I used for my cross bracing were actually from a flying wire kit I had laying around. They already have a grommet in them so there is no sharp edges on the wire.

oh and I am with AeroBob, there is life west of the Mississippi. I am right smack in the middle of TX. But it is so hot here (almost 90 yesterday ) we just have the wind to contend with. But we fly year round here.

Talk to ya'll soon

John

JustPlaneCrazy3D

Thanks jeyre!

Good Luck on the new Ultimate.

cobia

My Feedback: (30)

If anybody gets A chance could you check where the fuse balance is on the Ulti without the wings on the plane pick the Ulti up with your fingers on the bottom wing opening find the spot where it ballances let me know how far back it is .thanks for your time.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

hey maudib..

I know you have had/have a few DA 50s what prop(brand and size) did you find best in an 8 pitch.. that would be all the pitch i would think i will need on this plane.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I love both the MSC 22x8 and the NX 23x8... Either would do well with this plane...

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

cobia - I just checked mine... with wings on, the CG is 6.5" aft of top l.e.
Wings off - 2.25" aft of bottom wing l.e. cutout in the fuse.

I'm glad to hear someone else uses that measurement as a relative reference. Works great when changing equipment, motors/props/batteries.