Corwin38

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Okay guys,

I'm being lazy in not wanting to go through this entire thread I need suggestions on a tailwheel for this bird. Came in a little hot yesterday and on full rates on the ground, she still tends to veer to the right while holding full left rudder. I was looking at the CG setup. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHBP5&P=7 I have also looked at the Sullivan kit which can either be set up for "steering" or "castor" mode. Any help is appreciated.

BTW, for those of you still considering buying this bird....in the air.......OH MY!! And yes, flies just like the Real Flight one.

Kostas1

Hey post a couple of pics!

gasguy

My Feedback: (13)

Here it is again, just one page back[sm=72_72.gif].

Use one of these below, they work well on most of my planes. Seven to eleven $. U-Can Do 120 tail wheel is my favorite. We have a rough field here with a few crevasses, one took off my tail wheel on a GP Stearman, so most of my planes get this mod. You will have to make a ply plate for the bottom opening and a tiller T (ply) for your springs or elastic.

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUN6&P=0[/link]

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWG3&P=0[/link]

Hope this helps, Jim

Ed Vollmer

My Feedback: (14)

I have read thru most of this thread and have not seen the combination I have built - perhaps I just missed it.

After some initial disappointment with the flying characteristics I finally have the programming done to my liking. My disappointment came from the belly tuck and roll couple in knife edge. Programming now has it flying on rails.

Another undesirable characteristic is “pogo� landings due to the main wheel location being so far in front of the CG. All the stars must be aligned to nail the landing without a couple of hops back into the air. Part of this could be due to my desire for somewhat tail-heavy models.

The Saito 220, which I have converted to electronically timed spark ignition (that is another story), is a sweet combination with the Yak. Most flying is at just over half throttle with full throttle required only on uplines.

I mounted the engine about 25 degrees from horizontal. This allows the stock muffler to exit at an optimum location at the bottom of the cowl and keeps the plug from fouling with oil between flying sessions. I added a full baffle to the front of the cowling with a cutout sized for the width of the engine just in front of it. This allows a minimal sized outlet hole for the cooling air to escape without pressurizing the cowl with incoming air.

The original molded plastic engine mount was not rigid enough for the Saito and was replaced with a Hangar 9 aluminum mount. This made a huge difference in lowering the vibration level caused by the engine bouncing around in the flexible plastic mount.

The all up weight came out just under 15 lbs. with the rudder and elevator servos under the canopy and the battery at the rear of the canopy area. This gives me a rather tail heavy plane which is to my liking.

This is my personal Yak, however, I also assembled one for a customer with a Fuji 46 gasser. It came out one pound heavier. It balanced well with the rudder and elevator servos in the aft end. It has not been flown yet (it is Winter here, folks) but I transferred the same programming to it.

This GP ARF is similar to all the other GP planes I have built, in that, the covering design is beautiful and the application of that beautiful covering sucks. Usually two days are devoted to eliminating all the bubbles and wrinkles. I have finished four GP “Patties� and all have required a lot of time with the heat gun and iron. Incidentally, these all had different engines – a Saito 300 (mine), a Tartan 3.0 Twin, an OS 300, and a DA 50.

I am attaching some pix of the Saito Yak.

Ed Vollmer

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Here are some more pix on the Saito 220 Yak

Ed Vollmer

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And a couple more of the Saito 220 Yak.

Kostas1

AWSOME

LostMyPlane

Ed, how about some detailes on the motor conversion!

Ed Vollmer

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The magnet ring is machined from aluminum to snug fit the prop hub. The magnet is pressed and glued into the ring and a set screw is used to fix the ring in position on the hub. The Hall Effect switch is mounted to a length of 1/16 aluminum which is bolted to the lower stiffener gusset on the engine. (See above photos)

The timing is set to 28 deg. BTDC maximum advance (full throttle) and 2 deg. BTDC minimum advance (idle). The ignition is my own design, but CH Ignitions can provide one with electronic advance that will work fine. They can provide the magnet and the Hall Effect switch also. Be sure to get the wiring instructions for the switch.

Let me know if you have additional questions.

mippe

Hallo
I have buy YAK from GP and i thinking about putting a ZDZ 50NG or 3W 48i B2 in .
Someone who can help me with the choice?

Sorry about spelling i´m form sweden

fingers73

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I have had 2 if these planes. The first flew with the fuji 50, it flew great only thing was it was a little heavy and the mains on this plane don't like the extra weight of the heavier engines. That plane crashed due to 1 elevator servo locking up in knife edge and was destroyed from the fuel tank leaking into the fuse and disintegrating all the foam making it unrepairable. My latest has the DA 50 saving on the mains a little bit. The performance is a little better. This yak has a steep rate of decent so power on the landings is a must. I would stay away from the b2 for the weight. As for the coupling with a tail heavy plane you will need more down trim to fly straight and level. When the plane rolls to kinfe this causes the tuck under, just something to think about. I will say I have a 35% g-202 and don't ever fly it now that I have this Yak. If you look in my gallery you can see the yak with the fuji and the main gear are clearly can't handle the weight. Any other questions?

Tesla1856

Thanks for the post and pic with the Fuji-50-EI. Even though the head is 1 inch longer than the 43, looks like it still fits inside the cowl nicely. However, I thought the extra weight would be a plus (not so tail heavy) and not a minus. I didn't realize the extra weight would be an issue for the front gear.

I'm still undecided about which engine to put in mine. Since I need to buy a PCM receiver, nice servos, batteries, and an engine this plane will be my most expensive yet. I want to do it right, but I don't have an unlimited budget.

The Fuji-43-EI is a possiblity, but the 50-EI looks even better for just $20 more. If I decide to get a Fuji, I will wait till Tower run the rebates on these again. The 50-EI will also put me closer to the power of the DA-50 that many people like to put in this plane. The DA-50 with a muffler is going to be $700, which seems a little steap to me, but like I said ... I can't decide.

fingers73

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I found that the fuji 50 is a little lighter than the 43. Also I have a video on here of that engine flying my old great planes Christen Eagle. The plane was 23 pounds, I ran a 20x8 3w prop. It would hover but had nothing else to get it out. The Yak with the fuji balanced out with 1 rudder servo in the tail and the 2 elevator servos with no added weight. Other than that it was as the manual said. Also none of the head stuck out, it had about 1/4 of an inch clearance. The plug did however and a little of the carb but not bad, mostly the choke arm.



http://www.rcuniverse.com/mvp/videolink.cfm?postid=1619

Aas you can see it would fly a 23# plane fine, the Yak at 15# was awsome. I am guessing on the weight I never weighed the Yak.

Uncas

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Have you considered a Brillelli 46GT?

mippe

I have order 1 ZDZ 50 to day from Germany 701,48 $US look at their price on the ZDZ 60 (608,83 $US )


[link=http://www.zdz-motor.de/]zdz Gremany[/link]

Tesla1856

Yes... it's on the list of possibilities.

46GT with CH-EI for $375.

kochj

I was given 400$ credit today at horizon hobby. Considering the 45 or the 58cc gas engines from MVVS(evolution) Seems that I might be okay with the 58cc being things may balance with servo in rudder.. Any input about this engine combination?
any input would help...
I am thinking about the GP cap 232 at a great price of 339 -20$certificate, and 25$ off for club memeber=295$ for the cap 232 shiped to my door!
ANYONE flown botht the cap 232 and the yak 54 that GP makes?
what did you think?
Ohh, has anyone put a cannister pipe in this plane?
Justin

fingers73

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I have the wild hare 202 at 25# with a 3w 75. My partner has the bme yak with the evolution 58 coming in at 19#. Both airframes and engines have excellent power. The reason I give stats on both is they use the same size props at almost the same rpm's. The 58 is also 1# heavier than the da 50. As I said earlier the mains dont like to much weight on them. Although I must say the 58 would be cool on the plane, it probably wouldn't be the best choice. To hard on the landing gear and brings the wing loading up. It would be about the same weight as my fuji 50 plane and the power of a 3w 75!!!

EngineDesigner

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I JUST GOT MY NEW YAK!!!! LIKE A KID ON CHRISTMAS MORNING I AM!!!

No, seriously, this is my first big plane and well... I love it. This is so big compared with what I am used too. I did get the fuji 43 combo from Tower. Maybe not the best setup, but I am happy with my purchase for now. I just love to look at it in the box, and cant wait to get it into the air. I have sat here most of the day reading this thread.

You guys are the greatest,
ED

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

ED,

I know exactly how you feel - you will not be disappointed in the plane! Felt the same way when I got mine earlier this year - it is just so big!

Make sure you read the tech bulletin update. Some of us with gas engines mounted the servos in the center instead of the tail to get the CG per the spec - which I feel is really conservative and hard to achiece. I am not really sure if that is necessary and I am considering putting mine back in the tail. Unfortunately I ran out of flying weather to finish testing by moving the CG back.

Does anyone have the rudder servos mounted in the tail?

Corwin38

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Has anyone found a carbon fiber gear for this plane yet?

Uncas

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Corwin38,

[link=http://www.graphtechrc.com]Graph Tech[/link] has a set for $50.

tomswrld

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Hi folks. Can one of you Yak owners out there tell me what the cowl diameter is in inches? I just bought a DZY 48cc twin and I want to know how well ( or if ) the engine will fit. The engine is supposed to be 10" plug cap to cap. Thanks, Tom

tazlittleking

You will need to cut the cowl. It is 9" side to side, 9.25" top to bottom, 9.75" angle to angle (not a round diameter).

Kfoster

Just bought the plane, it will be my first larger scale plane. I have spent a lot of time on this thread and you have all answered many of my questions and have learned a lot. Thank you all! I have two questions at this point. I want to replace the tail wheel asembly, by the sounds of it the stockone is not going to cut it. I have been looking at some of the suggestions made, am I going to have to make any mods to the fuse to get some of these to work? Seconly, I want to put a pilot fifure in, I am hoping to find a helmet head. I have not had a lot of luck. Any sugesstions? I am hoping to post some building pictures soon. Thank you again everyone!