foxfoto

Nice job on the artwork... Thanks for the response, I wanted to make sure there was not a necessity for doing both sides. I have not done either yet and need to do it...

Thanks!

Charlie

Jimeni

Thanks Aviateur, the pics did the trick. Thats how I was thinking of doing it, just needed to see it. I'm going with clear mono on bottom only, although what you are saying about doing both sides makes sense.

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

The easiest way to go is with 2" clear tape. You cut each piece, fold it lengthwise, and then push it into the gap with a credit card while keeping the aileron deflected all the way. Then cut the excess tape with a sharp blade. I did mine that way and after more than 40 flights, it is still holding on very well. I also did the elevators. BTW, you only need to do one side.

LANNYBOB

after which you could do what i did and coat them with clear coat nail polish.

Jimeni

Did anyone else get 5 cone shaped washers/spacers that fit on the 4-40 screws with the hardware kit? They are not mentioned in the instructions, and I see no where to use them. I'm sure I'm gonna feel stupid when someone tells me where they go. Anyone else have trouble with the throttle rod hole in the firewall causing binding when done per the manual? I had to open the hole in the firewall to over a 1/4 inch to stop the binding. Seems the throttle arm is too close to firewall at specified measurements. Works nice now.

reyn3545

I don't remember the washers, but I do remember having to open the hole in the firewall a little... depending on your engine choice, that's not unusual.

aviateur2

jimeni I think you're talking about the spacer in cone shape where they go??? I mounted mine as this !!!!At the end of pushrod where the ball link is suppose to go to the servo arm I mounted them like that, 4-40 Screw true the ball link Next the cone formed mounted with the flat side against the servo arm and next the 4-40 blind nut. I don't know if my english is enough understandable but I give a pic or 2

aviateur2

ok for your problem with trottle linkage, depend of witch engine you mounted on. on mine It's a saito 125 that has the carb very near of the firewall. so I fix the problem with a "4 stroke trottle link" It's design specialy for 4 stroke. I finaly find it Here is a pic of what it is. of course it goes on a 4 stroke engine. with that installed on mine , no more problem with a bend trottle wire I hope it will help bye

Jimeni

Thanks guys. Yes aviateur, those are the ones I'm talking about. Will put them on, but looks like it cuts thread engagement in the locknut pretty close. I appreciate the help. Hopefully I will fire this pig up tomorrow.

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

I remember the cone shaped washers, I didn't use them. To me the ball link does the job nicely without a spacer between it and the servo arm, and so far so good.

reyn3545

yeah, I'm with you.... now I remember what you were talking about.... I didn't use them either. After 50 flights or so, the links are still rock solid, plane flies great.

Syssa Aircraft

Do not forget...the farther the center of the ball link is from the centerline of the servo arm...the more torque (twisting force) you put on the servo arm. If it is possible...and there is no binding....try to keep the ball link closest to the arm with the mininum of height (with added spacers, washers, etc.) This will improve rigidity, accuracy, and again reduce the chance for flutter.

aviateur2

Hi tsyssa, I'm not sure of what you are saying previously is a good deduction but you can go as you feel about.

1st: all the ball link assambly is acting, with the servo arm as only one piece because the 4-40 bolt, the ball of the ball link, the washer, the servo arm and the 4-40 blind nut are all tighten together so they become as one piece.

2nd: the only piece of the ball liink that is free for movement, is the grey piece of the ball link itself and of course has to be free for movement. this is why we put the coned spacer directly on the ball of the ball link and the flatten side on the servo arm.

3rd: doing it like this,the flatten side of the spacer act as a more surface against the servo arm increasing the rigidity of it.

I don't know how to say it but I don't want that you to become mad with me. I only give my way to see it and of course I may be wrong (hope not) lol !!! And I think that the flotter action is caused by a hinge line not gap more than a poor set up of the linkage.

Syssa Aircraft

Aviateur...lol...I am not mad....

After starting two businesses from scratch...starting when I was 17 years old...going through college full time, working full time, running the first business full time....well, I have been through quite a bit...I have been stepped on...beaten up (not literally) and all the things that go with what I have done. Believe me, here I would not get mad at anyone..only at customers that dont pay! lol I am mad about the state of CT being so bassackwards and not even realizing that they are making businesses move other places due to the unfreindly business climate that just keeps getting worse!...that does make me mad lol...but anyway....

We are here to help each other out and iron out issues with the Funtana...and have FUN(tana)!!!

Flutter can be caused by anything that allows your control surface to move freely. Slop in the linkage or bad servo gears can be a cause of free movement. Of course a large hinge line gap is bad...but this will help induce flutter aerodynamically...as will the sloppy linkage...but they slightly different. Basically I was trying to get at this: If you have a fairly large twisting force on the servo arm (not the direction the servo arm is turning in) you can develop slop in the linkage....this is what could cause flutter if it is reasonable bad.

take care!

LordSirOb

I have a quick question. Is there enough meat around the CA hinge slots to allow the use of a hinge point style hinge, especially on the wing/aileron setup? The CA hinges require work to install the hinges (can you say not deep enough) and I'd rather drill some 1/8 inch holes with a robart hinge point jig in the same location rather than wallow out the CA hinge slots with a knife or GP power hinge tool.

Thanks

Ken

Jimeni

I would think there is plenty of room for pin hinges, especially if you notch out for the swivel. Just beware, use the max. hinge gap on elevators as a minimum, or you wont get full travel. Re-hinging a plane before you fly it sucks. I used recommended gap and could only get 46 degrees on elevator high rates, all others were ok.

Syssa Aircraft

It was cold and I was bored...so what was I to do!!

Check out the checkered bottom...To get the desired effect, I had to carefully cut and use 3 different pieces of ultra cote. The checkers had to run straight on the sides and the bottom...and then match them up at the bottom corners...it was a little tricky..but came out pretty neat!

Now I have to finish the cowl...I need to repaint the white over the orange and silver...and then...not sure if I should checker or what...

Also, the wheel pants...it would be neat if they were checkered too...but I think white with blue trim would be cool...anyone?

I just wanted something different and I could not stand to look at the orange anymore!!! lol

Never really done this before...but it came out pretty decent. I still have to fix a couple hanger rash sore spots....

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

Tyssa,

I like!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How hard was it to pull the Orange off???

Hibrass

Syssa Aircraft

Lol...it was not really that hard...it comes off pretty cleanly. After removing, just spray some WD-40 on the leftover goo and that takes it off with ease...then clean up with windex.
The funtana sticker has the most goo.

I left the orange underside just for orientation purposes once its in the air...at least I dont see it when the plane is sitting on the ground though!

LordSirOb

Thanks for the heads up on the elevator. I noticed that the damned trailing edge on the horizontal stab is not beveled. I think I'll pull the covering back a little and glue on 1/4 tristock to add a bevel to get more throw (a neat trick learned building profiles).

LANNYBOB

make sure you guys change the tail wheel if you havent already, after about the third landing its done for. heres some pics of it. sullivan tailwheel assembly for 10-22 lbs planes is what i used.

reyn3545

How'd you make it last for 3 or 4 flights? Mine broke just puttering around the yard. Now the bottom of the tail looks like someone shot the wheel off of it because of the way I had to break out the pieces that didn't break in the first place!

Anyway, like Lannybob mentioned... replace the tail wheel... don't even put the original on!

Syssa Aircraft

I tried that sullivan one...it had so much slop in it from side to side....

...ended up using a Showtime CF tailwheel setup...this has lasted the longest and works the best...you just have to make sure nuts are tight and you have a larger washer on it than what they give you...then it is much better...

powerlines

Weellll.. I will tell you this.. If you are making a BIG loop and run Wide Open Throttle on the down line.... You will be buying a new SET of wings... LOL... I knew better and was caught in the moment.. I saw the wings shakking.. I idled back and eased it to the ground. Broke the LG but she it still ALIVE.. New wings are in and on and I am ready for this SATURDAY!!!

LATER

PS Keep the speed down on the funtana..

israelg48

Hey Tyssa, could i get a copy of your checklist? I have a few 30% gassers and am just finishing up a funtana so I would definitely help

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