Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

I'm considering the Aeroworks Profile Extra and was wondering if anyone has experience with it? I read the RCU review which was really positive, but it's easy to be positive when it's a free airplane. I'm looking for end user experience.
Which engine did you use?
Any info is greatly appreciated.

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

I have one with a Moki 210 on it. It will have power power power. I flew it with the RCS 1.40 gasser, and it flew very well. It didn't have unlimited vertical, but It pulled out of vertical maneuvers pretty good. you will be pleased with this plane. just remember, if you go bigger than a 1.60, install flying wires on the tail feathers.

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

I have one with a Y.S. 120A/C on it. It has great power. Pulls out of hovers with authority. I'm not sure what it weighs. You will enjoy it. Good stable 3D plane.

Rick

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

Thanks for the reply guys. I'm planning on hanging a Super Tigre 3000 on the front end but am a little concerned about the weight of the beast. Any thoughts on that?

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

Get one,you won't be sorry.I've got one with an OS 1.60 and it is fantastic.Mine weighs 11.0 lbs.Definitely one of my all time favorites.@$300.00 you can't beat it.
Mike

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

Is the 1.6 enough to TR without running the motor wide open? Enough guts to pull out vertical? I have a 1.6 laying around and was considering one of these if it would work.
RickP

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

The OS FX 1.60 is probably the ideal engine for this airplane.

The only concern I have heard about the OS is its weight. (3.7hp and 32oz wo muffler) It might be a problem with the CG, but then again some people want this airplane to be tail heavy.

I'm mounting a Moki 180 on mine (4.1hp and 41 ozs wo muffler). I'm going to try a moosecan muffler initially. If that works out, great. If it doesn't I will have to foot the bill for a Bisson Sports muffler.

Per recommendations from other posters and Aeroworks, I have installed Sullivan flying wires on the tail. I'm hoping the single wire will be enough -- I've seen most people use 2 wires. My single wires appear to be more substantial than their 2 wires. I've mounted them individually between the vertical stab and horizontal stab, left and right, and between the fuselage bottom and horizontal stab, left and right, all centered on the vertical and horizontal stabs.

I also followed recommendations and mounted a Sullivan 12-22lb tail wheel assembly instead of the one provided in the kit -- no tail wheel pressure on the rudder.

I'm also mounting Hitec HS-5625s on the elevators and airlons and a Hitec HS-5645 on the rudder.

With luck, I should be able to get this in the air this week and take it with me to the Blennerhasset Fly-In on Saturday.

I'm waiting for my initial flying experience before I decide to alter the elevator to make more room for the rudder throw.

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

great airplane!
I and a friend have been flying one that we put together for an associate. Initially he had a 1.80 saito on it but this resulted in the plane being way to tail heavy. The Aeroworks Extra profile was apparently designed around the big Moki's since the talk about them quite a bit in the manual. In addition to the balance issues encountered with the Saito 1.80 we found that it SHOOK the heck out to f the plane, so much so that the fuel would foam in the tank and always lean out the engine. Needless to say we pulled it and put a Moki 2.10 on it. This is the PERFECT engine for this airplane, POWER to spare and the airplane balances right on the money with no need for extra weight.

Take the advice of many on this board though because you will find that it really can stand to have the tail braced up. Cutting 3/4" off the inside of the elevators really helps with the rudder throw and authority. Get the best hardware you can afford, we have had the elevator pushrods break on us twice with near catastophoc results! we suspect it is probably vibration induced and was a leftover headache from the early experience with the saito shaking the airframe so much, the Moki is VERY smooth.

The plane is a joy to fly and can be either an easy flier or a wild child depending on throws and balance. I especiall like the way it's a cinch to land, very stable.

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

If you have a 1.60 lying around use it.The 1.60 is perfect for this plane,no need for the big Moki's(nothing against Moki)I didn't check the balance on mine,but it flies beautifully with power to spare.I will probablly move the cg back a little more.I have the battery mounted right under the hatch just like in the manual.I would also cut the elevators like someone else recomended.I built two one for me and one for a friend.On his I cut one rib bay out of each wing panel,and 1/2 inch off each elevator.His rolls a little faster and snaps better than mine,but I am leaving mine the way it is with the exception of cutting the elevators to get more rudder throw.
Mike

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

I have two, Errrr 1 now. Great airplane fly mine @ 4000' altitude with a well used ST 2000, yes an old 2000, 11.97 pounds. Will fly out of a hover but it runs out of power after 2 1/2 rolls on a up line. Great plane the only thing I would change in the kit is the hinges and go with RC south blue giant super hinges.

RE: Anyone tried the Aeroworks Profile Extra?
 

I have one with a Moki 210. Plenty of power. Fuel consumption is OK as you will not be using full throttle very much. Added dual wires to the tail. Built a new rudder that is 1 5/8" longer.

Very stable in hover with power to rocket out. Don't expect the roll rate of the smaller profiles. Good slow flight. Only fair flat spins and blenders. Good walls. Poor elevators and harriers.

the Moki shakes the heck out of the plane at idle, but it is much better now that it has 3 gallons thru it.

Get a set of Krazylegs landing gear for it, you will like them.

Ed M.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

Hi Guy's I am currently putting together the ARF version with a Moki 1.80. other than the flying wires on the stab,
some right thrust, and different hinges. Are there any other changes you would recomend.

thanks Mike,

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

WHAT THROTTLE % WILL IT HOVER AT WITH A MOKI 210

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

About 20% just based on stick position, at 25% or better it starts climbing too much.
Ed M.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

My friend and I each built one of these profiles from the kits. I clipped the wings on mine one rib. It flies AWESOME on a Saito 180. I weighs 9 1/4 lbs.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

I Have one and will be putting the BME 50cc Gas engine.
My freind has one, with this combo, its a blast. The CG comes out perfect with this motor as well.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

I have one with a MDS 148. It have enough power, but this engine is crap as engine. Currently i install on my plane Saito 180. Battery moved forward as possible.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

I had one with a YS140L in the nose. I first had 32 oz of weight in the nose to get close to advertised CG, but ended up removing it all AND move the engine as far back as possible. You can and should run CG way further back than what instructions say. With a 2 - 2.5 lbs engine in the nose it'll balance fine. I cut some of the inside elevators off to increase rudder throw, and I also added flying wires. This is the easiest plane to hover, well, right after my new Mini 3D he he. I sold the engine and then the plane, what i frickin mess running all that glow fuel ha ha.
DKjens

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

Here is my attempt at the AW Extra Profile. I just finished it and ran the motor in today. It’s BME 44 with a BME 21 x 8 prop. First run up I got 6750 rpm. It idles at 1650-1700 rpm and shakes a bit, but a couple of clicks and the shacking goes away.

I did make the cut in the elevator to get more throw from the rudder and I added the counter balance on the elevator.

I haven't weighed it yet, but should come in around 12.5 lbs to 12.8 lbs.

It balanced at around 1.25"

Her are some pics

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

do you think it would have enough elevator control . if i cut it but don't add counter balancer's to it . i would double bevel to have 70 degrees + throw.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

I did add counter balance to the elevator. Look at pic 2, the white area at the ends is what I added. It's a little bit more then what I took off to get the additional rudder throw. Do you guys think it will be enough?

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

no i was wanting to know if i didn't add the counter balancers would it have enough elevator



IF I CUT IT FOR MORE RUDDER THROW

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

In the original RCU review on this plane he summarizes that some modelers were cutting away the elevator for more rudder throw and adding the counter balance to improve control. It did improve control and he recommends that modelers should do this when their building the kit not after wards.

Hope this helps.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

Had one with a BME 2.7 up front, lots of fun, learned to torque roll with this airplane. Only modification I made was to add 2 inches to the rudder cord because of the weight of the motor up front.

RE: Anyone tried the <span class=
 

I finished mine and have flown it for the last couple of months. I haven't altered the elevator yet, but will probably do so in the spring.

Weather has been a factor and frankly I'm still breaking in the Moki. It appears to run dependably but not as smooth or as powerfull as I heard she should -- also running with the Bisson Sports Muffler. I also suspect I'm having some minor problems with my servos, been noticing periodic glitches during flight. According to Hitec this might be caused by the long extensions on the tail servos. They recommended twisting the wires. I've done that for the wing and my last flight appeared to be glitch free. I will pull the RX this winter (removing and replacing the RX is not a simple process due to the limited space in the wing root for it.) and do the same with tail servos.

One of the reasons I'm still not sure the engine is fully broken in is that it does not appear to like the 18x10 prop that the manufacturer says it should excell with. I compromised and put a Mejslik (spelling???) 19x8 on it -- I think that will be a good combination. Another is that when it comes to adjusting the lowspeed needle I'm guessing and hoping between tweaks that I haven't over-asjusted it (I've been told that it should not be adjusted more than one notch either direction of -- I've got it 1 1/2 notches.) So far I have not had a deadstick but have seen my fuel economy swing very wildly and it has coughed a few times in the air.

I'm now on the 3rd gallon of fuel and have switched from Omega 5% to Omega FAI. I will switch again in the Spring to a home brew of methanol plus 20% Klotz (80:20). I'm almost certain my problems are related to my inability to properly tune it -- will take the opportunity to have a Moki expert in the future adjust it for me.