split elevators Y rod setup
 

I am in the process of building the Fliton Extra 330. I'm at the elevator setup and the instructions call to wrap the control rods and dowel with wire to form the Y to the elevators. It doesn't specify what type of wire. Can one use any type of wire or should I use extra wire from the rudder pull pull system?

TIA

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

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RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

I used the wire and then put a layer of epoxy around the wire.

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

You can use sewing thread to wrap it and then coat it with epoxy or CA, make sure its not too thin but something as thick or a little more than dental floss.

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

I think I used copper wire that I had wrapped very tight with the heat shrink over top of it. If I had to do it again I think I would think of another way to hook up elavators. Maybe use two servos....I just didn't like the y hook up. IMO it was a pain to hook up

RCBunn

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

Hey Gary--we used to be able to buy a small spool of light gauge soft steel wire at the hardware store for wrapping joints. I have a partial spool left somewhere, but finding it is another question. For wrapping wire joints that need to be soldered, I get thick stranded copper antenna wire from Radio Shack, then just cut out single strands (for wrapping wire landing gear, etc.). One length will last a lifetime.

But here you're wrapping steel pushrod ends to a wood dowel. I presume there is a small 'L' bent into the dowel end of the steel rod, to fix into a hole drilled into the dowel, to keep it from sliding. Other than that, all you need is something to keep the steel end from falling off the dowel. I use nylon rod-wrapping thread. Carpet thread or button thread would also work. Start by wrapping the thread over its own loose end, wrap about an inch, and when you're ten turns from the end lay in a loop, wrap over the loop, then insert the loose end in the loop and pull so the tag end is buried under the last ten wraps. Then cut off the tag end and wet the whole wrap with CA to keep it from unraveling.

Or, go down to RCBW and get a Dave Brown fiberglass pushrod kit, which is maybe a little less work, holds up very well.

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

Follow Manortom's recomendations-a dave brown composit rod, and drill it out and use 4/40 rod. Follow instdructions and will neaver break and will be stiff. Nothing betdter than two servos there, but there is a down side to two servos and thats tryhing to sinc. them in their travel. Matchboxes really dont help much if any. You have got to get your geometry correct at the elevator halfs. Drill your control horn locatins with the two matched together (tape) and drill for the control horns on a drill press that is 90%. A tiny bit off will make your plane a dog for harriers etc. If you go to two servos, make the servo locations IDENTICAL, the pushrods IDENTIAL, EVERYTHING IDENTICAL. If the two elevators are not alligned at servo nutural, YOU WERE NOT IDENTICAL. Most likely to be a dog until you get it right. The dog go to great when its correctly done. This is a hard learned lesson from Chip Hyde who almost beat this old man to death to get it right. Chip has got the be the most patient human on this earth! Wonderful guy in my book, we are fortunate to have a number of his tipe in our hobby!

RE: split elevators Y rod setup
 

I second the Dave Brown system. The wood dowell is heavier plus it will change with temp and humidity.

David