RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

you won't be able to mount the cowl if you use the dle. I built it. for the dle but decided to stick with the 110
Ameyam

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Iadmit that there's not much cowl remaining after cutting it for the 20cc gasser but, there's enough left to make it look better than a bare engine. However, my engine is a G20EI with side mounted carb. A DLEor RCG engine with a rear mounted carb would leave plenty of cowl to make a nice appearance.
Mine is in the foreground and the other one has a nitro engine of some sort.

RJ

http://www.flygsw.org/yabbfiles/Atta.../Reactor_5.JPG

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Cool!

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Well, like rowdyjoe shows and mentioned.. the cowl will still fit, you just have to remove a lot of the cowling because the entire 'pitts' muffler will be exposed.

Idont think there was much difference in power when Iswitched from the YS 110, compared to the DLE 20 that Ilater switched over to, that ended up with a lot of cowling cut out. Of course they are two completely different machines.
I dont know if the DLEis actually more powerful than the YS110 was, but the difference in weight distribution that the DLEended up with was much smoother responding in the air in my opinion. The extra cowling that is cut out for the DLE did not seem to effect much of anything in the air.

Imight just have to get another DLE20 for this thing again, rather than the OS 91 FXIwas considering... Or steal mine back from my Dad..

Only thing that stops me from getting any engine from HK is the fact that its a one time shot. There is no service department to send them to that Iam aware of.. so you are really on your own if there are any issues down the road. Also, Ihave only really heard horror stories from anyone trying to return anything to them, or even getting replacement's due to defective merchandise. Because of that, Iwill not buy motors/engines from them.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Quote: "Only thing that stops me from getting any engine from HK is the fact that its a one time shot. There is no service department to send them to that Iam aware of.. so you are really on your own if there are any issues down the road. Also, Ihave only really heard horror stories from anyone trying to return anything to them, or even getting replacement's due to defective merchandise. Because of that, Iwill not buy motors/engines from them."


I had that concern too until I remembered that BPHobbies (http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V815101) is the USdistributor for RCGF (same as RCG)engines and provides service and parts. Check out their site.

RJ

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Thats good to know, rowdyjoe. Thanks. That does change my opinion quite a bit.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

It pains me to think about this but, my Reactor Bipe was destroyed in a crash. It was a real thrill to fly but, LOSon takeoff broke it into a million pieces. :(
The engine, servos, etc. are OK (lost one servo) and I plan to replace it someday. In the mean time, I bought a GPUlitmate 160 bipe and it's about 2/3 complete but, building slowly.

RJ

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Hi,
I did do a test fit with the dle20 when I was assemblying mine. I had built if for gas anyway. I found the entire right lower side of the cowl would need to be removed.Then my 110 weighed 650g where as the dle was 850 + batt + ign. So I stuck with the 110. May do a retrofit later & see if it helps
Ameyam

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

What 110 glow motor is lighter than the DLE 20? Most that Icompared to were either close to same weights, or much heavier.

Its been awhile now since Idid compare motor weights, but Ithought the DLEwas lighter than most(Ialso compared to 110 sized 4 stroke glow motors), and if not, the difference was not enough to even care about. One thing Ido remember though when Imade final choice on the DLE, was that the combined motor weight of it was spread out ofer a larger area up front, rather than just one lump on the motor mount. Also, you save a bit by being able to run at least 4-6 oz less fuel tank.

Yeah, to some its meaningless to mention weight distribution, but to others, it means a lot.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Also, bythe way, if you didnt know, there are wrap around pit mufflers foe the DLE20, that puts two exhaust pipes behind the cylinder head, rather than at the side. That might just alow a completly enclosed install..

Dang, realized my Dad has that too.. hmmm...

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

JR,

have a look

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVVW8&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAEPW&P=ML

These new A series OS are much lighter

I did mount the DLE by strapping it to the mount with wireties temporarily to see the CG during the build. It balanced with that whereas the 110 brought it close to the rear CG limit. However, when I was done building it, the airplane balanced perfectly on the CG, no idea how. I know regarding the pitts wraparound muffler. I have similar chinese one. It wouldnt fit if the cowl was kept intact. I also had to consider where to install the ignition and put the additional battery. So I passed on teh dle20 then

Ameyam

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

It isn't a surprise that the fire wall broke in half when I dead sticked... (ran out of gas, and was flying in a un-used soccer field)

It is make out of 2-layers of Ultra-lite plywood.
You can cut this stuff with a razor blade in a few swipes...

GP could have used some Aircraft quality plywood with VERY little weight gain... almost NONE...


I replaced mine with 1 layer Aircraft plywood and 1 layer of ultra lite plywood...
Should hold up very well..

I did the same for the undercarriage... as it was also made of ultralite plywood and broke in half!!!...gee what a surprise!....


One thing I noted: That plastic control horn(s) on the rudder is way too flimsy...
I mean, it just flops from side to side with very little resistance...
I realize that my Funtana 100x had similar ones, but the H9 horns seemed quite a bit more sturdy..

The flex will not cause you to crash, just not very much control or precision when it is flexing like that ....
I am also finding that it doesn't take much to stall these servos out on the elevatiors and rudder..
they are about 90oz on elevators and 120 on rudder....
It isn't enough IMO...

I at the point were I will just go out and buy 330oz plus servos for everything and call it a done deal...
I will never have to worry if I have enough then... Or if the lack of performance is caused by blowback....

I have found with digitals in general, they have VERY good holding power!....
The servo power when MOVING the surface is about the same with analog, but once you get the control surface to the flex the servo is at, and hold it....WOW...
It takes MUCH more force to move the surface once it is stopped ( even in a flexed position) is have very good holding power.

I have Hitec digitals on the elevators, and a MKS on the rudder, and even though the rudder servo is rated higher, than the Hitec servos.....
It doesn't seem to have the power the Hitec digitals have..
The MKS has Ti. gears and digital....but doesn't seem to perform as I expected it to...

I am going with Savox servos from hear on out.... or Futaba brushless....

I may go with Hitec 7955Tg on the rudder and elevators to see if I can tell a difference with all that extra torque...

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Doesn't work!....
The video says it is PRIVATE....
NO go..

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Try it now. Surprising no one told me...

After what you said, I am very glad I built the airplane the way I did. I added tristock to the firewall inside & outside + I fibreglassed it. I thickened the LG Block with 3-32 birch ply. If I am not mistaken, I added 2 sheets. I added some more ply to the fuse but later realised it was not necessary and dremeled it off.

I didnt use the stock horns. I used Dubro scale black colour horns. They held up very well. I also use Hitec 5625MG servos everywhere finally and ball links. Initially used 3010s but they were a bit slow in the hover

Ameyam

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

It looks good.
Are you going to leave the radio mount the way it is, or cut it out and drop it to the bottom... Essentially reversing the tray so it isn't up side down?

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

So is anyone running a gas Saito in one of these?

Fg-14 or 17?

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Like you said, Ipopped the tray out, and lowered it so it is upside down from normal. That center 'radio tray' is only holding the battery, I added a small tray behind it on an angle to hold the Rx.

I will be updating the build thread pretty soon, as I am just begining the covering now. I will toss a couple shots up here when Ido.

Thanks http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gif

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

I am sure someone is.
I have a .81 saito but think it is too small for this plane. The os.91 4 stroke looked good, but what we expect out of aerobatic planes these days, is considered minimal.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Thanks. I'm kinda surprised someone running one of these engines hasn't chimed in.

Anyway, I was looking at the fg-14 as I don't want this plane to be porky, but it puts out power similar to a 72 four stroke glow, which I figured likely wouldn't be enough.

I don't need it to be a rocket, but would like good pull out from hover.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

If yours is built stock, try the OS 110 A instead. Its light and has extraordinary power for a OS 4C. It also sips fuel. Its not uncommon to have 4 sorties on a litre of fuel

Ameyam

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Mine is still in the box, but the thing is I don't fly much glow, and would like to go gasoline.

I had one in electric that I picked up used (unfortunately I lost orientation of it on like my 3rd flight). I could go electric again, but I would like longer flight times and to be able to reduce time between flights w/o running a generator.

Plus somehow this plane seems like it needs four stroke sound.

I may order the 17cc Saito gasser, and see how it goes.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

is the .17 a 1.00 glow size?

with a 50$ more get a 21cc??? 4stroke gas

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

I have rebuilt my firewall, and landing gear mounts....
Used Aircraft plywood on 1 of the 2 layers... instead of the 2-layers of Ultralight plywood that comes on the plane.
I honestly believe the way it was made from factory was sufficient....but...
IF YOU have a dead stick landing, and you have to land hard, the firewall and landing gear mount
will break if you have a couple of them....

MY firewall split in two, and so did my landing gear mount....
It doesn’t help that the landing gear are separate.. If the gear was one solid link, the landing gear would have pulled out, but not break in half...

I found the saito 1.25 and DLE 20 almost the same weight all fixings included ( ignition, muffler, bolts ect.)
I was very surprised at this....and almost went with the DLE 20 instead..

I though about placing the DLE 20 with the pipe header to exit out over the bottom middle of the fuselage.
This would save the cutouts on the side of the cowl and look very tidy...

I still want to be able to fly this in a large park, so out goes that idea.....
The pipe was on a OS 1.20 AX and it was already too loud, the Gasoline version would be louder, due to the loss of all that slime that actually helps quiet things down in
a pipe/muffler...

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

after all Ihave been through with the bipe, ys 110, dle 20, os 110 4stroke.. Ithink it would be best electric for vibe's and lifespan.

Mine is finished, but the os 91 Iput in it is dead, needing at least a bearing change, probly ring too. Iam thinking of motor choice's once again.

Otherwise, rebuild 3 is ready to maiden finally http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gif

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Yeah the 17 would be a 1.00, and is supposed to have equivalent power, but I suspect in reality the gas version would have a bit less.

$ wouldn't stop me from getting the fg21, but I'm worried I wouldn't be happy with the weight?

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

That wouldn't be overweight by any means.
It would balance spot on.

The 20 cc gas 2 stokes are in the 35oz range and balance and fly
W/o any issues.
Make sure you use strong metal gear servos
And ditch the elevator and rudder control hardware.
You would be good to go

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Ys110 please!
I have yet to own one but have witnessed the power and sound of them.
I will add a ys115 wb version that YS has recently released.
It is there WarBird edition. It made to go fast.
Most 4 strokes usable rpm's end @ 9000, this one tops out at 18,000 RPM's!
It will go in the scale wb pylon racer.

Not wanting to go off topic, but with O.S moving there
Machining to China, YS is the only one over there that makes competition nitro
4 strokes anymore. I realize Saito is there, but there engines are on the sport side of power.

I would have loves to have placed a OS 150 pumped but at 500 bones, it is out of my range for now.
I had picked up my saito's prior to the price hike.
I would think that OS would have ran 150$ less than it is now if the dollar wasn't so low right now.

Too many planes and engines right now. If I had only 2 or 3 large scale planes I would go get one, but having like 15 large planes and other large rc cars boats ect... It is too much.

RE: GP .60 Reactor Bibe
 

Has anyone figured out what would work out to get the airframe to be more neutral when in Kife edge??
I think my plane will be quite different now that I have some good digital servos in the ailerons (I also had a servo come loose off the cover(my fault))
that in itself should make some dif. as mine flew different from inside or outside K.E. as this would explain this.

I added some screws through the cover into the servo mounts, so it will NOT COME LOOSE again no matter what!...
I used superglue for the fix, so I know it isn't the same as epoxy....

I will let you all know how it flys now.... += it has more throw on the ailerons...
I still have to pull off that rudder hardware...as that rudder controll horn blows.... it just bends when under force.....
OR I may just place some wood on the side of it, to stiffen it up.... I am in the EASY mode, and just want to go flying
w/o any fuss.....so.....YEP that is what I am going to do!....



This video has been seen quite a few times already...but I just wanted to show that a .91 4 stroke is very good match as well...
It seems to have quite a bit of power IMHO..

I am not sure if he used micro servos ( I believe it states what was in it at begining of video) but even with standard servos, it would fly the same...
Nice thing about using a larger engine than needed, is that you can use very low nitro, and still have plenty of power..
This works out well for those thinking about glow fuel costs..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf7Fb...712C012D11A992