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Old 08-08-2006 | 02:26 AM
  #14  
Kelly W
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Delta, BC, CANADA
Default RE: PST contact?

ORIGINAL: speedbrake

Hi Kelly,
I flew my first turbine this weekend. Wow! What a thrill! The Reaction 54 and PST 600R combo is awesome.

I used tygon tubing for the fuel system. The nipples on the fuel pump require 4mm tubing. So somewhere in the system the two sizes meet. My manual says to stick the smaller tube into the larger tube 1/2 inch for a leak proof joint. Is there a fitting that joins the two different sizes? I noticed BVM tanks come with 6mm tubing, which has a bit smaller diameter (OD) than the tygon. I like the 6mm tubing because it is clear. So....I want a fitting that joins 6mm tubing to 4mm tubing. What is your recommendation for fuel tubing? Do you have a fuel filter designed for 4mm tubing? The only filters I have available are designed for glow fuel tubing.

I noticed the propane tank wouldn't hold more than one start sequence worth of gas. I used a trigger valve and closed the valve when the gas quit moving to the tank. The gas supply can was in a up right position. Any ideas on why it won't hold more?

What is the fuel consumption rate for the 600R? It really drinks the fuel. I have 54 oz. on board and can obviously use more. Would bringing the Max rpm down on the turbine decrease the fuel consumption enough to make a difference?

Thanks,
Keith

Congrats Keith, happy to hear it went well! The 1st one is the best, but the novelty never truly goes away from flying a turbine.

Tygon vs. Polyurethane... 1st one important note. The 4mm polyurethane hose can be inserted into a Tygon hose, but ONLY on the low pressure side of the pump. NEVER try this anywhere between the pump and turbine as the pressure will cause a small fire hose style leak in your jet (and at the worst possible time I'm sure...). Personally, I usually exit my tank and connect to the UAT short section of large diameter Tygon. From the UAT onwards, all I used in polyurethane hose... So, exiting the UAT, I use 6mm poly hose as far as possible, then switching down to 4mm a few inches prior to the pump inlet (as close as you can reasonable get it will do). The pump exits with 4mm hose, but I immediately switch it back up to 6 for 2 reasons. 6mm hose will cause far less flow restriction compared to 4mm, and there's a really nice filter available from Hanger-9 which works well with 6mm poly hose. That is the filter I tend to recommend... ([link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN143]link here[/link]) Before or after that filter, I install a 6mm ball valve, then switch back down to 4mm for entry to the turbine. Just make sure the filter itself is after the pump where it captures any debris created by the gear head. As I've stated before, the key to a healthy fuel system is to minimize restriction and attempt to keep the pump's inlet pressure as close to atmospheric as possible. If using multiple tanks in series, also make sure to use the largest reasonable size of hose / tubes for the connection and clunk lines. I keep stock of all the hose ang fittings which are described above.

Before switching topics away from filters though, you should know that there is a 'last chance' filter under the violet fairing on the engine. Running a J600R or J1300R for a few runs without a filter is obviously not something any PST rep will recommend, but it is possible in the very short term. Another note, the UAT itself acts as a good quality filter as well, leaving the other filter primarily responsible for smaller particles and / or gear head debris.

Converting the hose from 4mm to 6mm can be done with either Festo union connectors, or one of may kinds of barbed fittings (both of which I carry in stock with hose and many other fittings). Festo quick connecting fittings typically aren't recommended on the low pressure side of the pump, unless you're really careful and keep an eye on them for leaks, since the o-ring seal is meant to work with internal pressure.

The gas canister isn't meant to hold an abundance of start-up fuel... One or two starts typically. Personally, I have a trigger valve hooked directly to the check valve, immediately followed by the solenoid, and the tank is no longer used. The external source method has a few advantages, the most important of which are: less overall powermax usage since you're not wasting any liquid, lighter weight and less clutter since there's no tank to carry around, more reliable starts (applies mainly to cooler conditions), etc..... When you think about it, the operator should be in the direct vicinity of the aircraft in the 1st place, so the direct connection really doesn't have much of a downside. To try this, just pull the trigger before the start initiates, and let go once the red LED on the solenoid goes out (while ramping up to idle). The check valve could be replaced with a union fitting, but if the o-ring in the solenoid were to fail, the check valve does protect the circuit from venting hot case pressure from the turbine. (important...) If you use a Powermax canister and you choose to do the direct feed method, make sure you hold the canister up side down, such that the internal clunk only feeds off the gaseous propane/butane mixture. If you're at all unsure what you're feeding the engine, disconnect your feed hose and blow some off into the atmosphere in both orientations... Some canisters have an internal clunk, and some do not, so its important to know which one you have.

Thinking back, I think the last fuel consumption numbers for the J600R was 250 mL / min at max throttle. This is a very outdated spec, and was pretty conservative in the 1st place anyway. Decreasing the max RPM will of coarse help extend your flight time, but it won't be as fun! I would try to find a place for mounting another 16 oz tank or so in series if I were in your shoes. To compare, my Stingray has 2 equal volume tanks and somewhere around 80 oz. I typically land with one tank 60% full after 7 min of air time.

Kelly