It is better to thin the Nitrate 50/50 and brush in different directions. I put the first coat on in a vertical movement, the second in a horizontal movement and the last 2 using a bias motion upper left to lower right, and then upper right to lower left.

You can wipe the Koverall with lacquer thinner prior to doping the first coat. Koverall is a woven fabric in the neighborhood of 0.5 oz/yd2. It is woven from 30 denier Dacron polyester yarn, This yarn is made of two disimilar polymers that are spun and drawn together. The white polymer is the heavier of the two and makes up approximately 80% of the threadline. The clear polymer is the glue or binder and is used in a lower percentage. The melt temperature of the clear (co-polymer) is much lower than is the White (ho-polymer) which has the higher melt temperature. When you rub the fabric with the lacquer thinner, you begin to deform the co-polymer and this helps to minimize the openness of the weave and therefore requires less product to fill the porous area. The pinholes are from inadequate saturation of the filler material. That is why you should inspect the doped surface with a direct light (incandecent bulb) before adding any primers or colored finish material. The light showing through the pin holes is easy to repair by application of more Nitrate dope to the area.

Hope this does not come across as a Smart alec reply, but in this instance I do know whereof I speak. I used to make the stuff.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1