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Old 03-17-2007, 03:12 AM
psiturbo's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Rafael, CA
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Default RE: My first XR8 Kit

$350.00 plus $25.00 for tax= $275.00

$120.00 on radio gear

$140.00 for the O.S. Engine

$10.00 On/Off switch

$22.00 battery pack (5 AAA rechargeables)

$4.00 shock oil, 60 weight

$2.00 fuel line

$4.00 extra glow plug, one died during break-in

$17.00 with tax for a exhaust manifold

$20.00 for the dual chamber tuned pipe (I used the one from my OFNA Ultra MBX)

Overall around $720.00; not bad just by knowing thats more or less the price for a Serpent 960 Kit.

A few things I had before; tuned pipe, shock oil, high torque servo, glow plugs; so I did not spend it all in one weekend. I have read on european forums where the cream of the crop is a Novarossi engine for these kits. For someone like me who is going to bash it, its just amazing the acceleration of the car. At the blip of the throttle the car just takes off. I weighted it today, 5 pounds with 5 ounces. Back to basics in terms of reflexes; have to predict ahead of time a clean line. Once I hit WOT this thing is gone before I can even turn my neck; better have around 40 to 50 feet to safely brake without tail sliding. I barely bliped it a few times because its still on break-in stage from brakes, clutch pads, belts and engine itself. The O.S. .21 is consistent, reliable and runs cool and I consider it too fast for me. The tuned pipe looks funky although performs great and I give it a plus plus at WOT making a hair raising scremaing sound. Seriously I need a big shopping mall parking lot to fully blast the XR8.

Finally dialed a little better the suspension, it was to stiff; adjusted the shims on the clutch and loosen the shoe spring. Now I need a body.

Other PDF files that should be printed as reference is from www.Kyoshoamerica.com the Evolva 2003 instead of the 2005. Its closer in its construction with the XR8. Another great PDF, 1/8 Motonica at www.rcinfos.com.

2 things are described incorrectly on the XR8 manual; installation of the 2 speed transmission. If you follow there steps the car will never engage 2nd gear. The illustrations shows it backwards; which I did it without thinking. Another thing to be taken in consideration; cut half a loop on each side of the clutch spring and put clutch pads between the pins; pin-pad-pin-pad so on, so on. Do not put the pins inside the pads. The pads are suppose to be free; the book shows it wrong. Follow MOtonica or Kyosho Evolva for more instructions. I will post pics soon of the glitches... The bolt used at the end of the clutchbell may vary depending on your engine and collet. I took like four or five 3mm x 16mm and cut them in different sizes starting from 12.5mm all the way to 15.5mm. Play with them and find out in combination with the shims which one is the correct bolt for your clutchbell. Mine liked a 13mm for the O.S. with a .7mm shim behind the flywheel. The kit is easy to build; the centax clutch is the tricky part, once adjusted properly its a breeze to adjust with a VERY small flat head screwdriver. Remove the glow plug from the engine or loosen it so the flywheel can be rotated. The clutchbell has a small hole similar to a 2 - speed transmission. A small bolt with a groove can be seen. Insert the flathead screwdriver so the nut is wedged or fixed, then start rotating the flywheel. If the FW is rotated CW (front engine view) it will loosen the nut making engagement quicker. CCW will engage later. Make sure idle screw meets factory settings.

The car has its ups and downs- its no plug and play, fuel and battery and lets bash. Patience will pay off if the centax clutch is setup correctly. I will upgrade with a Serpent clutch later, for time being its working great. Will post more pics soon and if possible a small video. I take back the upgrade part, for now the Power Racing centax clutch is a champ.