MED601,
Are you using kicker to set the C/A? If you are, don't. Once I have a slot in the covering, I take a sharp X-acto and trim a 1/32" piece of covering away from the slot. (above and below the slot) This exposes not only the slot but the bare balsa on either side of the slot. When you have the C/A hinge in the slot, the balsa and the C/A hinge gets wicked with glue and does not leave the white residue.

As far as the belly pan, use thick C/A to tack it to the bottom of the wing and then a thin bead of clear silicon does the actual holding and provides for a smooth, fuel-proof, aerodynamic seal. (Make sure you seal down the covering really well before you do this and also trim away some small areas of the covering on the wing so the glue can adhere well.)

I cut a "U" shaped opening on the entire under-side of the cowl so my motor is exposed. The fuel tubing coming from the tank has an "L" shaped fuel fitting on it and another piece of tubing connects from that fitting to the fuel nipple on the carb. This fitting hangs about flush with the bottom of the cowl opening so reaching it and separating to put a fuel can line on is easy. No fuel dot required.

Balance is achieved by putting the entire plane together and moving the battery to where it takes to make the nose go slightly below level without fuel in the tank. I don't think I ever had a plane that balanced as easy as this one.

A 1.60 ought to make this thing scoot. Remember that when the nose goes down, the throttle should come back proportionately!

I've had four failures with 635's and started using JR Sport 125's in planes up to 72". Not saying anything bad about Hitec but I personally am staying away from 635's. Your 605's and 645MG's are bulletproof.

I'm taking mine out this weekend to rid myself of another gallon of fuel. I just hate letting fuel get old!
Terry