With regards to the wing bolt modification – it's quite simple really and I hope the pics clarify it, however basically what I did was the following
(I've gone into a lot of detail in an effort to help, and it is really easier than it may seem from reading all this):

For the bottom wing – I installed a hardwood cross-piece in the fuselage above the T.E. and tapped two 10-32 holes.

At the front it is a little tricky – although the idea is to simply install a dowel in the wing L.E. center and make a corresponding hole in the ply fuselage former, the design is such that there is very little material left under the hole if you are not careful, but if you are then it is OK and also the bottom balsa block adds a lot and the whole area then becomes very strong.

So that's what I did and I'll give you a little tip:

When building, don't build the wing, then the fuselage, and then try mating them, rather - finish the wing first, including the L.E. dowel, and then prepare the hole in the ply former at the correct position according to the plan and your wing (put the dowel about 2 mm higher than on the wing section cord, to "gain" a little material under the hole in the ply fuse former).

Next, wrap the wing center section with nylon film, install the ply former on it with the dowel engaged in the hole, and continue positioning the fuse sides on the wing and assemble the basic fuselage structure on the bottom wing. You'll be amazed how accurate a wing-fuse fit you'll get and how the whole wing-fuse alignment will be accurate and easy to achieve. Remember these small bipes have zero tolerance to inaccuracies in construction and alignment (and that's why I practice building them once in a while – then my larger models really come out good).

At the bottom of the T.E. I put two 1/32" ply pieces to take the pressure of the bolts. You can put one piece, but "think light" on such a model, all along the construction.

Finally, I built using some balsa T.E. section and a bit of 1/32" ply, a small "receptacle" or "raised slot" for accepting the aft l/g wire. The gear engages in that when you assemble everything. Use epoxy here, and the ply with grain perpendicular to the direction of the wire/slot. Do use very soft wheels since that would be the only means of shock absorbing.

Now for that top wing: I added four hardwood blocks in the wing (actually made of sandwiched 1/4" ply pieces) which then accepted four 10-32 tapped holes.

The cabanes – I simply took their edges that are supposed to remain straight and accept the rubber bands, and rolled them into horizontal circles such that a 10-32 nylon bolt would just go through. The aft set is easy, the front is tight because it is very close to the wing L.E. and at that area the section bottom starts to curve up a bit. Tight, but can be done. See pics.

So now you have a model assembled with six bolts but it assembles quickly and also, you need not take it apart often, it is small. The benefit of all this is not just looks, it's also the fact that every time you assemble the model, it is exactly the same, and we mentioned these little bipes don't tolerate mis-alignments...

Use nylon bolts that have the slot recessed, or otherwise there's the risk of the screw driver perforating your wing...

One more mod, if anyone is still reading all this, I added shear webs between top and bottom, fore and aft spars, from 1/16" balsa, vertical grain (see pic).

This I did for about 75% of the span (from wing root to one rib bay after the aileron break). Not sure it is necessary, I trust Gordon that if it isn't on the plan it is not mandatory, but I prefer it, even though I fly rather basic aerobatics. Maybe it gives more resistance to wing warping over time...

Hope it all made sense, if not, don't hesitate to ask.