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Old 07-20-2007, 01:17 AM
  #11  
ifr2lax
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: CA
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Default RE: Is "Wood Glue" dead?

Another retread here as of 2001.

Most glues seem to have their place. In my uncontrolled experiments...

CA I tried but it is quick! Sometimes it sets quick, sometimes you have to hit it with accelerator...but to me seems too brittle for a lot of small stickwood joints and hard to sand without destroying everything around it. I use it mainly for "in the field repairs" and "tac" joints to hold things in place while you build.

CA does NOT evaporate so it is a heavier joint than water or acetone based glues. Store CA in the refrigerator and it will last for years. I have a bottle of thick dated 2003, just used it last week seemed fine. I think it is pretty toxic stuff...(wonder if the CA "accelerator" is the culprit as it gets atomised when you squirt it on the joints...have heard that your body builds up a sensitivity to it...I use it sparingly

#2 FAVORITE - Aliphatic, Elmers Carpenter or Titebond? I use for more critical joints that may not have to be sanded. Especially when using hard wood like spruce, bass or plywood. I thin the glue a little with water...a bottle cap...(Heineken) is the right size and paint it on the joint. Let it soak in for awhile and then use the glue full strength...try to wait 12/24 hours for larger joints where air is pretty much shut out of a lot of the area.

Gorilla glue I found to be a mess...if you use to much it bubbles out of the joint in a froth...hard to sand, gooey and tough. Strong though! Think it mainly for plywood to hardwood.
I have not used it again. I would use epoxy in its place. Just as much of mess but doesn't froth out of the joint.

#3 FAVORITE - Epoxy again for joints with a hard wood, like spar joiners, firewalls, rock-maple engine mounts...30 minute type Epoxy is the minimum cure time I have heard for a strong joint, 24 hour epoxy is better.

#1 ALL TIME FAVORITE...! Ambroid, similar to SigBond? is my general use glue for balsa/balsa joints. I thin it with acetone 50/50 and use a paint brush to pre-cement a lot of joints, then go back and use full strength with a "baby bird feeder" syringe that has a curved tip...lets you put glue where you want it...also works for aliphatic glue.

Ahhh! good ol' AMBROID and ACETONE...just a little wiff takes me back to building models as a kid...but after ONE wiff...I turn a fan on.

If you use dope to cover, try a GAS MASK! It WORKS! When I am covering with dope...if it more than a repair I use a gas mask with charcoal filters (~$15). The charcoal removes enough solvent gas that after a coat of dope...walk in the house..close the door...