RE: Induction Timing
Lets face it it might help if you read before you post. I said it should be done with machines but if you have already done some heavy grinding by hand chances are you have really thrown off the ballance. (common sence) so if you are doing it by hand the best way I know of is to do what I stated in my previous post. Now for not working on a single cylinder engine, This process is used in motorcycle shops and most PWC manufactures train techs on using a V block jig (polaris, seadoo, tigershark...) This jig is also used on both two stroke and four stroke dirt bike engines (Honda, suzuki, Kaw...) when the customer is complaining of harmonic vibration from engine, After ruling out the obvious tuning etc. The factory will have the tech do a tear down and check the crank this way, I know as I have done it many times, But the first time I seen it used on a nitro engine was when a tech I worked with used it on his nitro engine that he was modding by Hand and he was using an ultrasonic with a flat tray. (made for a bowl / cleaning fluid) He did this because the factory techs sometimes would have us tap the side of the bench with a hammer to cause vibrations to see if crank would move. I do under stand that these engines are turning a much higher Rpm but to take something way out of Ballance and leave it alone is worse than to get it pretty close. I hope you would agree on that. My personal Opinion is that it is worth $80.00 to $125.00 to have it professionally modded, but that is not what this thread is about. It is about using math to mod and doing it by hand and people do it every day!
I mean you no disrespect but look at the picture. No weight was added to this crank and it is turning a much higher rpm, infact you can clearly see it was lightened very much. FastRcCars[>:]