UStik

To your relief, there's already much information in the threads here, you just have to join it. Let me try:

The Hanno is a high-performance engine, made for FAI fuel without nitro. Run on racing conditions with very good fuel/oil mixture, it will last out up to 200 hours - only. So you'll want to use a fuel with very clean methanol and a quite viscous synthetic oil with additives. The cleannes avoids residues, the additives neutralize acids and avoid corrosion, the viscosity makes for more robust lubrication. There is a "conservative" type of CoolPower meeting this specification (17% synth oil, rest methanol).

You may use a lower-viscosity oil for marginally more performance at the cost of a lubrication less forgiving of wrong needle/tuned-pipe settings.

You may use nitro fuel as well for a bit more performance (remember: 6% from 15% nitro). It was already said that you'd need a head shim to reduce compression. Generally accepted seems to use not more than 15% nitro without a shim, or you would lose a precious engine by burning it internally. Using nitro for smoother running requires only 5% or even less.

The Hanno was made for 9500 rpm what the original tuned pipe was set for. You may run it at higher rpm for more power (remember: 1.4/1.05 kW) but that would mean more stress.

You have to choose a suitable propeller for the rpm you want, that's what the figures posted in the other thread are good for.

You have to tune the pipe to that rpm. This can be done by measuring in the first place but has to be fine-tuned. The bigger the prop (diameter/pitch) the lower rpm and the longer the pipe. Start with the length given for the rpm intended PLUS a safety margin. A too short pipe will destroy the engine (by blow-back of hot exhaust gas), a too long pipe only gives less power.

Always set the needle on the rich side. External cooling is scarce so internal cooling is needed in addition. Better waste some fuel than burn the engine.

You think the Hanno is oversensitive? You should see the rotary engine! It's on the limit in every respect and it's actually not possible to run it reliably. The Hanno is an engine for competition - it has to be reliable. It's only not fool-proof because it's not a complete drive set including not only engine and tuned pipe but also propeller and fuel.

It's your choice. I assume you'd prefer a conservative setting, say 9500 rpm and FAI fuel with viscous synthetic oil, pipe and needle always on the safe side (and a soft mount). You'd have a reliable engine with enough service life for the few times you'd use it. You might even trade some service life for more power if 1 kW is not enough for you. Just stay on the safe side of settings.

That's only the summary of various posts here, I didn't add anything. I could add a link ([link=http://www.aerosynth.de/pages/main.html#download]AeroSynth information[/link]) and a thought: If you bought a used engine it might be advisable to dismantle it and clean the parts (including ball bearings). Otherwise old oil and residue could be detrimental when the engine is run with different oil.

B.