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Old 12-17-2007, 01:54 AM
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Kmot
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Default RE: ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul

Here is the inspection report I recored while disassembling the FS400:

1) Slight dark gray residue inside power section. Probably just from wearing in.

2) #2 articulating rod linkpin has flanges broken off. Found one piece inside power section.

3) No rust apparent anywhere.

4) Slight greening to the color of ARO (normally red) in diffuser. Probably due to brass diffuser nozzle.

5) Valve adjustment settings as found:

#1 In: .28mm Ex: .25mm
#2 In: .33mm Ex: .25mm
#3 In: .35mm Ex: .25mm
#4 In: .20mm Ex: .18mm
#5 In: .50mm Ex: .15mm

Specified adjustment: .04mm-.10mm for both In and Ex.

6) One head bolt on #5 cylinder head was not torqued down.

7) One shim on #5 cylinder is warped slightly. Probably due to non-torqued head bolt.

As you can see from the figures above, the valve adjustments were wildy out of specification. All the nuts were tight, so this is how it came from the factory. Perhaps there was some loosening of the tolerances as the parts wore in.

Here is where the engine spent the past year. You can see the fuel tank on the floor, as the rubber bands holding it rotted and broke.



The engine was under this canvas cover to protect it and keep it clean.



The following pictures are as the motor was removed and torn down. You see it just as I saw it.









Up to this point I thought all was fine. Then I found this:





The linkpin at top is the broke one.



Other than that, it looked OK inside!



The rocker boxes all looked good.



It's important to keep all the valvetrain in order as removed, so it can be put back where it came from.



Removing the cylinder heads.



This is another factory goof. It appears the first headbolt someone attempted to install was when the head was not lined up.





And finally down to the main power section and cylinders.



Here are the assorted parts so far.



Again, keeping the valvetrain in order, this is how I stored the tappets.



I am at the point where I need to disassemble the nose from the power section. I tried using heat on the area around the bearing to loosen the case. No luck so far.



Since I do not have a manual, I am guessing at how to tear down this engine. My guess is that the front bearing needs to come out before I can remove the nose piece. Next I will put the whole thing in the oven and see if that will get it to loosen up.

To be continued...