Norfolksouthern...
As Russm stated, the model tends to build nose heavy...that is one reason I mounted my servo's in the aft section near the tail feathers. Just look to the pictues I posted on an earlier post here. You will need at least two longer servo leads to make it work. and make sure you tie off the servo leads...don't let them just bounce around in the aft fuse. The nice thing with this mod, is that all our adjustments are easy to make...and you shift some weight aft.

The tail wheel assy. on the kit is a weak point, and that is why I went with a stronger unit. I like the leaf spring tail wheel assy's or the unit show in my pictures. I like a little spring to my tail wheels...and it helps save the model in your less then perfect landings.

I also placed a good strong plywood brace, under the landing gear, inside the fuse, epoxied to the floor of the model. The brace is about 3" long and goes from side to side in the fuse. This will give you added strength in an area that needs it. On the stock model, in time, you will eventually have repair issues with the mounting area of the main landing gear. This mod will cure that issue...but if you fly it into the ground at warp 10...that will be the least of your problems... : )

I never use stock fuel tanks in my ARF's. I use Sullvan or Du Bro...and there are other good name brands out there. I have had many issues with Chinese supplied fuel tanks...they leak, will leak or, are going to leak.

I fly the .40 size...and I've built and flown every size from the Mini Stick, to Dick Jensons Ugly Stick. They all flew well...all of them, and are tons of fun to knock around in the air.

Forget the four servo's in the wing...It may seem like fun...but it's more hastle then it's worth. And for a second model, you need to keep things simple...you know...the KISS number...keep it simple. If this model lasts that long...later during one of your rebuilds or repairs, once you know the model and can fly it...then go with four servo's if the ich to use four is still with you. But believe me...the set up, and Tx mix will drive you nuts. So just keep thngs like they were with your trainer and what I would recomend for your second plane.

Unless your floating in money...I would use a more cheap engine in your Ultra Stick. If you go with a .40 size airframe...use a .46 class engine. If you buy the .60 size airframe...use a good stock .60. This model flys much different then your trainer. As forgiving as a stick model is...they are pointers. they have no real neutal stability like a high wing trainer...and they will go where you point the model. And you fly this model...and it goes where you fly it. It will be a little un-nerving at first...but once you get used to how the model flys...you will love it. The Sato 100 will launch this model straight up...with authorty...I've seen it done.

NorforlkSoputhern,
I have a kit built Slow Poke...and it builds tail heavy...real tail heavy. I added quite a bit of nose weight to my model to get it to balance per plans. I used a heavy engine too, a K&B Sportser .45, with full mufler. So double check your CG. My model flys well in winds and rough air...but I'm a bit nose heavy, and set it that way on purpose. Our field gets gusty trade winds all the time, and my Slow Poke flys nice in the wind. Just keep your speed up on landing and set your balance on the forward end of the CG. Add as much weight as needed to balance, and don't worry if you add seven oz. of lead to the nose. I added...almost nine oz. of lead to get the balanc