You are better off with a pair of aligator clip test leads than the Cox connector when dealing with a non-Cox engine. One clip goes to the post on the glow head, and its wire leads to the + post on the battery. The other lead goes to an engine mounting lug, or any un-painted metal part on the engine. (the mountng screw will naturally ground through the anodized coating 90% of the time.. so should be no problem) You can even connect the clip to the exhaust outlet opening if no other pont is convenient.

Radio Shack sells the test leads n packs of 6 dual ended leads, appx 2 ft per wire.

There are several 1.5 V batteries which will work... there's a square cell that looks like the 6 V lantern battery, but is 1.5 v. There's the tall round cell... you can place a pair of C or D cells in parallel (connect + to + and - to - Cox had a starting kit that used this methd.) Anything that gets 1.5 V and holds it under the load of the glow plug is fine.

I'll assume you had some success with the Cox engines...

The larger engine does not have a spring starter, so you need to learn the safe starting method... r get an electric starter to keep your fingers out of the prop. The larger engines tend to start easier than the Cox engines. (YEA!) But they break your fingers instead of just whacking them and making the finger sting for a while. (The .25 CAN cut your fingers OFF!)

Make sure no wires will get in the prop whaile you are starting the engine. The prop can cut the wire and send a clip or cnnector off almost like a bullet.

Follow the engine instructions for setting it up. (needle setting, mounting...) With glow DISCONNECTED, fill the fuel tank, double check all fuel line connections. Open the carb with the transmitter. Cover the intake with your thumb and rotate the prop forard until you see fuel get to the carb, then 3 more turns of the engine. (glow still off. It can kick back and cut you BADLY if golw is on at ths point) Reduce throttle to 1/3 open. Now connect the glow power, and apply the starter to the engine. It should start right up. Needle adjustment is very similar to the Cox.. but you have to have the carb at full throttl wen adjusting the main needle. Ignore the idle needle for the first couple of tanks of fuel. (Its an air bleed carb and idle won't be too far off as it shipped from the factory.)

Hand method is similar to above, but requires in person demonstration to show how to do it SAFELY.