RE: Deception Rescue
Mitch,
I'll have to check it out on Google. I'll also pick up a tube of that stuff and give it a try. I'm going to also try polyurethane glue on small hinge points on the D10 for a change, see how that goes. My concern is the foaming of poly as it expands - don't want it in the hinge point.
Regarding ailerons on your D60, I would go with dual outboard servos but that is a strong preference of mine. I'm not a big fan of torque rods particularly on strip ailerons - I don't mind them for flaps. I'm not sure what radio and RX you'll use but using 2 channels on your ailerons does offer you considerably more flexibility with a computer radio. Although any channel can be assigned to the second aileron servo, I've discovered that certain channels are preferable in order to keep the pulses in phase with the master channel. On JR/Spektrum systems for AIL this is AUX2 (ch 7). The corresponding aux for use with the elevator channel is AUX1 when using two servos on elevators (I don't do this on pattern ships - I use forked pushrods). I like to make my servo wells deep, line them and install the rails inside glued on three sides recessing the servos and leaving only the horns on the surface. On my D10 I installed the servos on the CG line just forward and outboard of the mains. If you do a tail dragger, you can install them easily at the chords biggest thickness just aft of the CG line.
I'm not sure if you did all your landing gear, servo well cutouts already. I typically find it easier to do this before sheeting as it keeps all the wood/foam lining under the sheeting and also prevents you from having to cut through sheeting and foam when making wells. But doing it after the sheeting gets the job done just as well. I guess it's a matter of preference.
Are you going to use mechanical retracts? Do post some info on how far fore of the CG you plan to install the LG line. I considered main gear only on the D10 but in the end I figured a way to get a nose gear retract in there. My concern at the moment is weight - I'll have to remove any unneeded weight wherever possible. So far, 4 holes planned in each wing TE/aileron, 2 holes in each elevator half, 5 holes in the fin/rudder. I'll have to see how much balsa I can remove from the fuse. The fuse top is a big slab but it's mostly needed for strength since there are no doublers in the Deception. It's interesting how the design relies on thick balsa, triangle stock and three ply formers. I'm also debating on the canopy - balsa or foam - but that will be last. I suspect I might make a mold from foam, glass it and either remove the plug or leave it in there depending on what weight glass I use. Maybe two layers of 3/4 oz glass and foam will be lighter than a full glass canopy without foam.
'nough said, David.