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Old 01-27-2009, 04:18 AM
  #12  
Ramon(tug)
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Suffolk, UNITED KINGDOM
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Default RE: Hydroplane weight?

Good morning everyone,
Though I didn't intend to cause 'disagreement within the ranks' it is good to see different opinions and to receive such good advice. Thank you all for your interest and input.

When I held the fuel tanks in the position advised by HJ it was immediately apparent that there would be little effect on the CG as the fuel reduced. I hate to use model aircraft as an analogy but this is just what happens to an aerobatic model, the model becoming more tail heavy through the flight. I don't know but would imagine that this situation would have a more influential effect on a Hydro given the same situation. The tanks are ex hair spray aerosols and are drawn ally. I shall make caps and bond them in place with JB Weld.
These 'containers' appear ideal for the task in hand, my only concern is that they will not stand up to the vibrations and may eventually split. It will be impossible to get them out without major surgery if they do!

Regarding the build Jeff I did make a jig and the hull fits to it firmly. I am used to using jigs (aircraft again) and am a firm believer in there use wherever possible. Apart from skinning the sponsons the underneath is finished and it sits true on a flat surface without rock.

Thank you also for your helpful advice and concern regarding the OPS. I first owned one of these in the early seventies when they first became available in the UK. As I recall this had a conventional water jacket and was plain alluminium all over. Unfortunately I lost the pipe overboard - inadequate brackets! and sold it shortly afterwards (BIG regrets now - hindsight is such crystal clear vision!!)

The type I have now recently came into my hands when a friend passed away and I was asked to dispose of his marine engines. As soon as I saw the OPS the old flames rekindled and here I am again making a boat after some thirty years or so. It does have a Kool Klamp. I took it off to strip and clean the engine which was well gummed and have not refitted it yet. I was surprised to find the conrod was very slightly bent when removed however there appears to be no evident wear and after straightening the engine turns very freely. Fortunately I am able to make a new one if the worst happen so the drawing is very useful. Thanks indeed. I notice your flywheel is brass. On mine it is steel and has a very uneven surface that gives the impression that it has been heat treated - that is hardened. I'm reluctant to try the normal 'file test' to see as I don't want to spoil the black finish.
Thanks once again I take note of all you have said
Regards - Ramon