<p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">Yo. This is the first engine I've converted myself. I have a new milling machine and lathe and way more optimism than is warranted by my skills. I had a few questions about the carb I chose here .<span style=""> </span>Thanks everyone for the responses. Flipping the existing throttle arm over gives it the perfect geometry - just screwed on a servo arm.<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">Anyway, my three main questions are:<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><span style=""> </span>1. Is the prop adapter too long for this engine?<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><span style=""> </span>2. WIll it stay on with no key and/or set-screw? <o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><span style=""> </span>3. What's the best way to attach an ignition pickup (RCExl)?<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o></o></span><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o>
</o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">I understand that this is basically a BME 50 classic, (never seen a complete one in person - this is part of the problem). The tapered shaft sticks out 30mm from the seal. My adapter is 58mm long (from back to face). I think I have a near-perfect taper fit and it tightens down real snug. I haven't finished putting a waist on it yet because I was thinking of shortening it by 8-10mm and re-doing the inside taper. The advantages of leaving it this long are twofold: 1. I will only have to space the engine forward about 1 cm from the firewall (going on a BME Edge Mk I), thus the fins won't stick out as far outside the cowling, and 2. I will not risk ruining a part that has about 4 hours of work in it. My concern is that the extra distance will result in too much lateral force on the front part of the crank. I<span style=""> </span>plan to turn the main shaft diameter down to around 25mm (1 inch). Opinions please.<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">BTW, The reason the shaft key is filed down is that I couldn't get the stupid thing out.<o></o></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;"><o></o></span></p><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial;">For the Hall sensor, I was thinking of bending it in an L-shape and epoxying it into a small-diameter tube, like the RCExl instructions say, then mount the tube perpendicular to the shaft at 28 deg BTDC. There's not a ton of room on the housing around the shaft to attach a mount. I threaded the hole that BME uses for their sensor mount (I think) but I'm scratching my head as to how to make the mount adjustable. I figure the easiest would be an L-bracket with a slot in the mounting hole, but here again I'm open to suggestions (with pictures!!). I'm a big fan of mounting things so they can't move.

Iwould be happy to provide exact dimensions and my process for those who are interested in the rest of the conversion.

Thanks in advance.</span>