How do you get a nice even and accurate bevel all along the aileron and wing? I find I can get it close but not as good as I would prefer.
Hi Chris
No magic, just take your time is all. I set my planer to remove as little wood as possible and use lots of new blades, then I just slowly plane away until I am close to my center mark and top mark (tape, pencil, whatever works). Then a long aluminum sanding bar with 120 grit to make the surface uniform.
Its a painfully slow process, to do all 4 wings and stabs took a few evenings.
Chad, what's the reason for double-beveling? For twice the work.....I'm sure there is a benifit.
Also, what did you use to cap the TEs.
Last one. I have never used the Ploy glue you refer to...is it a better alternative to Aliphatic resin for caps and epoxy for stuff like hard-points?
Reason for double bevel is two-fold, a) it leaves as much of the capping intact as possible. Since there is no spar, the cap takes load, so the more of it there is the stiffer the wing. b) it just looks better when its all done. Although the total bevel is the same, there is an optical illusion that a double bevel seems to not leave as much gap.
TE's are capped with 1/16" balsa
I did some checks on the poly-u glue to see how far it penetrated the foam, ZN uses a pretty open cell foam and that stuff goes about 1" into the foam, so that capping is really on there. When I cut out the stab root cap a huge amount of foam came with it. I have never been able to generate that kind of bond with any other glue.
John,
Thanks for the kind words! I am sure JP will have something in the future kits, in the past there was always at least a set of drawings. I know he is busy getting ready for the Worlds, and there have been some changes to ZN with the fuse outsourcing etc. so likely instructions are lower on the priority list.
Hopefully I took enough pictures so that anyone building one can get the info they need!