Ihad a similar film structure on one of my SSE - 3 color graphic on the wing top that did not follow any underlying structure. Pic 1 shows the end result. Pic 2 shows the 3 colors after the pieces have been cut out and taped together with at least a 1/4" overlap. Pic 3 shows the pieces after they have been seamed on a mirror. Glass works well for this as it is not porous and will not give the adhesive an opportunity to bite into the surface. Use a low heat that just activates the adhesive to make sure that the pieces are positioned correctly. If not you can pull them apart and reposition them. Once the inital seam is heated follow up with a hotter iron to fully activate the adhesive but not hot enough to shrink the film. Let the seams cool. Once cool the panel can be removed by pulling up from one side. The adhesive has a bit of a hold on the glass but not much. No adhesive will remain on the glass if film is allowed to cool. The panel can be applied to the wing as you would a single piece of film.

Ihave not stretched a panel seam over a wing tip or other similar form that requires some serious stretching. So far I've used a single color to do the tip. On the SSE I used a single piece of yellow and pulled it over all edges providing an excellent surface for the panel to adhere to on the end.

Like always, Ultracote cuts easily with a new razor blade or X-acto knife until you heat it up to "fully shrink" the panel - then it's pretty tough, expecially the pearl coverings.

HTH - yea, I know, my name isn't Mike ...

PS- here's some pics of the bottom panels too. They could have been applied following the LEsheeting, rib cap strips, center sheeting and TE sheeting but Ichose to make a panel instead.