Classic Fundamentals...fillets, elevator pushrod, rudder cables, tail wheels!

More details of the 1983 World Champion Calypso

Fillets- Film covered models can look even more "finished" with a small filet added after the stabilizer and fin are installed. I use Bob Violet Models Aeropoxy #BVM9566 $15.00 per cartridge (Loctite 9462 Hysol $7.50 per cartridge McMaster/Carr) to create a tiny fillet. I apply a small bead and wet my finger with denatured alcohol and keep running across joint. Paper towels and more passes remove the excess epoxy. The Calypso color scheme matches the natural color...you can dye the glue with Testor's plastic enamel to match Monokote colors as well.

Elevator pushrod- The elevator pushrod was built during construction and test fit. A 2.5 mm dual axis ball end from Central Hobbies connected with a titanium 2.5 mm rod end to a Dave Brown carbon arrow shaft. The "Y" end is standard 2-56 steel threaded rod to Hayes nylon steel pinned clevis. Do not forget the large fuel tubing to keep it shut. The control horns are MK Large aluminum horns from Central Hobbies about $8 each.

Making the elevator halves "perfect"- I use (2) .060 mm sharpened carbon rods taped to the elevators.

Rudder cables- The Futaba 9151 digital servo has about 180 inch/oz of torque. Keeping the cables tight...

1. Measure the distance between the center-line of the rudder and the control horn. Calypso was about 1/8" BEHIND CENTERLINE.
2. Using a large wheel, mark a line 1/8" towards the REAR of the wheel. Drill holes for (2) 2.5mm dual axis rod ends (Central Hobbies) and install by adding (1) extra 2-56 washer to raise the ball off of the servo wheel.
3. Add a 2-56 nut to a 2-56 threaded eyelet to the dual axis rod end.
4. Thread the braided cable from the rear of the model, crossing and attach with stainless steel crimp (Proctor Enterprises) loop the cable through (2x) for security...crimp with diagonal cutters (3x).
5. Install fin, hinge rudder and add rudder horn. Tetra rudder horn from Central Hobbies shown.
6. Add small heat shrink (blue), larger heat shrink (red), crimp and Hayes clevis with 2-56 eyelet with 2-56 nut. Do not forget to add the large fuel tubing.
7. The rudder horn is attachment points are the same distance apart as the servo wheel...completeing the symmetrical geometry for tight rudder cables through out movement.

Tail wheel- 4-40 bolt was cut-off and medium silicone fuel tubing was forced onto bolt and secured to rudder with servo screw (Central Hobbies). The steering is positive yet is forgiving if the tail wheel is hit hard.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba