There are two approaches to templates. The first is to make a hard pattern that you can trace onto balsa and then cut to the trace line. It isn't all that accurate because, as pointed out before. the ink will bleed and finding the lines isn't very easy. You have the width of the pin or pencil that you trace the part to the paper or material you are going to make the template from. Then you have the same issue transfering from the template to the wood.

The other is to make a set of patterns in a CADprogram and lay out a set of parts on 3x36 sheets so you can print them out and use 3M 77 spray on the print out, align it to the balsa or other wood and stick it down. You cut and sand to the fine line and you end up with parts that are as accurate as laser cut parts as long as you quit sanding when you hit the line. You peal the left over paper off and you have a clean set of parts. The last time I cut a wing using this method, I stacked the ribs together and all 20 some of them lookes like they had been block sanded to shape. Each was individually sanded to the printed line. It's quick and easy, and can be accomplished with about any CADprogram, including the free ones. The key is the printer. Most software will limit the size of the "pages" to what the printer can print. Usually 8.5" x 11" or the metric equivlant. Some printers can print "Legal" size which is a little longer. The printer like SeamusG and I have can print out three sheets of balsa equivlant wide, including 4" sheets and easly 36" long. It just opens up a whole new world for making parts.

Storage is easy alsoas it is just a small computer file, not a stack of stuff you have to keep from bending or breaking and keep together in a file drawer somewhere so it doesn't get seperated. It doesn't get bent or go musshy if it gets a bit of humidity. The ink doesn't run.

It works for me, it maynot for you.

Don