I know the topic of engine break in has been done before, and before you flame me, I did do a search. Out of the top 50 results, only one thread was useful, and it contained a whole bunch of conflicting opinions. So, I am posting this in the 1/8th buggies thread in the hope of getting some advice from someone who has already successfully broken in this engine. I know it's a problematic motor, but I have ordered the PBS RTR and I don't have another $200 for a better engine yet.

Please tell me what owners experiences are in terms of breaking in this engine. I want to do it right. Also, while we are on the subject, what fuel should I use for break in and is the RTR glow plug OK, or should I get a different one?

Appreciate any available advice guys, cheers.

Check out this manual.

http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-hyper21.pdf

I use 30% Odonnell with a MC8 plug. But as long as you use a good fuel with at least 20% you should be fine.

This engine is super tight and will be for a while. One thing to do is heat the engine case up with a hair drier, this will make starting a little easier. Then you can break it in how you decide, there are many opinions out there, follow the manual, the Bess methos and others. Teh important thing is too keep it on the rich side and always make sure your piston is at its lowest position when you are letting the engine cool (flywheel will be the loosest when piston if BDC)

Also keep a look out for an OS 20 E carb. It makes tuning the Hyper much easier and it holds a tune better.

Hope this helps and good luck with your new buggy

Also check out this site http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm;)

For the Hyper 21 it is recommended that you use 16% - 25% nitro, that is what they come pre-shimed for.

Check that the carb is seated on properlyon the engine.

Before you start the thing up you need to set the carb up properly.

So wind in the MSN till it's just below flush.

Wind the LSN out a few turns.

Close the sliding barrel right up and adjust the Idle screw till there is a 1mm gap down the thraot.

Now wind in the LSN till you feel resistance (NO FURTHER) and then wind it back out 3.5 turns.

Next wind the HSN in till you feel resistance and then back out 3 turns.

******First start******

Squirt a few drops of After Run Oil (ARO) down the carb throat and in through the plug hole.

If in cold climates it is a good idea to warm the BLOCK of the engine up to over 100'F (#40'C) as this will help the engine to rotate more freely.

Fit the air filter.

Now turn the engine over (spin the crank) a few times to lubricate it.

Now fill the fuel tank and prime the engine by blocking the exhaust and turning the engine over till fuel spits from the plug hole (Caution should be taken to avoid fuel in the eye).

Fit the plug but leave it a turn loose.

Now place the (CHARGED UP) glow stick on the plug and yank the cord/bounce th car on the box. It may jam up but then you just need to prise the flywheel back to a free spining area.

It WILL run, you just need to persist in this bit.

Once runing tighten the plug up.

Allow it to run for 5 minutes at Idle and the shut it off. Allow it to cool for 5 minutes and the start it up again. This time it should just be a case of yanking the cord/ Bouncing on the box with the ignitor on.

You need to repeat this for 6 tanks to do the break in fully, it takes about 6 hours to do and will help the longevity of your engines life. Not breaking in a Hyper 21 engine correctly will cause the conrod to snap and possibly take out the piston too. DO NOT rev the engine over 1/2 throttle uring this stage.

******TUNING******

With the engine runing start to wind the LSN in by 1/8th increments till it accelerates without boging out. (It will still bog in the mid/high range).

With the LSN set start on the HSN, wind it in in 1/8th increments till it rips up the dirt without spiting oil. It should however still have a good plume of VISIBLE smoke. Without the smoke, again you WILL throw the rod.

Check the idle speed and ensure the brakes are not stoping the whels at Idle (this will induce a brakeing force on the engine and cause a perfectly tuned engine to stall unexpectadly and causing you to fiddle when you need not.

That's it done, nothing to it really but it seems that people just cant do it. So follow this guide and the H21 will serve you well.

Nice one Alex, thanks mate, seems pretty straight forward, one thing though, could you further define bogging out? Oh, and what's the top end on these, in terms of RPM?

Bogging out makes a BU BU BU BU noise and the buggy will barely move, normally followed by a stall. The manual says 38,000 but I dont believe that as there are too many variables. closer to 30K I think.

Also if when leaning out the HSN you start to cut out at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) then richen the HSN a 1/4 turn and leave it there. Try to let the engine warm up whenever you start it as ragging it on the box is not good.

The best mod for these engines is a boost bottle. It will need a starter box once fitted but then you get the full potential of this mill and less problems caused by the Pullstart assemby.

No worries on the pullstart front, I'm ordering the PBS from tower tomorrow, with overland delivery to Greece (should be interesting to see how long that takes...). I can see you're going to be my new best friend for the next few months. Thanks again, take it easy dude.

Hello Athens boy.I live in Cyprus,and also own a pbs!

Cool, not many OFNA/Ho Bao cars in this part of the world, eh? We'll have to hook up, as I haven't been to Cyprus yet...In case you didn't see my previous posts, I am English, but I've been living in Greece for two years...are you cypriot, or an ex-pat?

No,i'm a Cypriot...NOW i can see why someone from Greece orders an RC car you are NOT GREEK...NOT so many rc funs in Greece or Cyprus.Where do you race?
We just started on making a track here but not finished...and not that good from what i can see up to now but will see...

Xalara, mporoume na exoume mistikous dialogous tora, xaxaxaxaxaxa (if you speak Greek, of course, but why wouldn't you if you are cypriot? Never mind...)

There is a huge track just outside Athens, it's called the FRT (Fanatix Race Track/Team) raceway, they claim that it is one of the best in Europe (for on-road that is) and it may well be, it's a very large impressive layout, it has hosted many international events, especially HPI Challenges of all kinds, 1/8th GP and 1/5th (HARM). The off road track is kind of bolted on the side of the asphalt track and is not very impressive to be honest, anyway they have a good amount of 1/8 buggy racing going on there, you can get more info and videos from www.fanatix.gr. The shop that runs it is fanatix models, the owner built the track with his own money and is an HPI and XRay distributor. He is also of course one of the best racers at the track, his name is Fotis, I know him reasonably well, but I haven't been there since I sold my R40.

I've been using this method for a while now and it works great. Check it out.

http://johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/main/tech_break-in.html

Ennoeite!!!!!!!!!
Kai stin kypro to idio,mia pista yparxei kai auti olo anomalies an kai den exei teliwsei akoma alla den 8a valei allo xwma apo panw.Ti na kanoume 8a perasoume.Stin Kypro exoume olo hypers kai hong nor,stin Ellada??

Ola einai kyosho kai mugen, pola lefta yia mena tetoia autokinita, afou den eimai poli kalos akoma.

xaxa, as doume ti 8a kanoun tous 'mods' an leme oti 8eloume sta ellinika. Ilithioi. Hdi den mou aresoun tous 'mods' se auto to forum. Allaxan ena h duo apo ta dika mou posts, kai den xerw giati...poustides. xaxaxaxa. As elpizoume den milane Ellinika, h tha me gamisoun.

Xairomai file!

Pws sou fainontai ta ellinika mou tote, e? Exeis gnorisei allous ellines sto forum?

Mia xara ta pas gia dyo xronia mono.Einai dyskoli glwssa!
Lets change language now, prin mas peta3oun e3w!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also don't have much to spent on those cars,that's why i bought the hyper!!How much did you pay for it from towers plu shipping?

450Euro including a 70$ futaba hi torq servo, two 10$ 7.2 sticks for the starter box AND a charger for the sticks, AND shipping. Pretty damn good if you ask me. The dollar is not worth the paper it's printed on at the moment, and I'm taking full advantage of the strong euro.

If you consider that to buy such a car here would be close to 1000E, I'm well pleased.

I bought it from Honk Kong for $300+$43 for futaba radio system(cheap one(2ER))+$50 shipping=~~$400=~~300Euros
And last week bought some cheap servos from ebay for $29!
But didn't have a starter box so i bought a starter for airplanes for $40 and made a custom box and put it in!

Interesting, I haven't ordered it yet, I was planning to this evening, but since I'm going for overland shipping, there's no major rush, I'll be waiting 6 weeks for it anyway. How long did it take to arrive?

Got a link for the site where you ordered it from? Also, bear in mind that I am getting the RTR version, with airtronics radio and starter box.

It took 2 weeks to get here.
I ordered it from this shop:
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk
BUT check out also these two and don't know if these are RTR with starter box.I just wanted a stick radio transmitter and that's why i bought it from them.
www.rcmart.com
www.rc-muchroom.com

Onansis !!

Onasis!!!!!

Eleos!!!

Stavros?

LOADSAMONEY!!! LOL! KEBAB!?