Well the thing was a real b!tch to assemble but boy does it fly nice. This is what I put on it.

OS 40FP engine
APC 11-4 prop
Futaba 148 servos and Hitech HS-55 for throttle
CG = 4.75" from leading edge
One washer of right thrust on engine mount.
Control throws: A=45deg, E=50deg, R=55deg
All up weight dry: 3 lbs, 13 ounces.


The 40FP really pulls it around nice. The thing is very light with this motor. I used the stock 6 oz gas tank and that keeps it light too. I was a little concerned about the CG (too far back) but it flies just fine. Get this: no trims necessary. That was a big surprise. I just used the trims on the ground to line up all the control surfaces with the wing, stab, and fin and it flew straight as an arrow. The thing I noticed it does the best is hover (around 3/4 throttle). Also it does blenders so nice. Very tight. This might be due to how much control throw I get out of the rudder. But it really does some beautiful flat spins. Knife edges were not too pretty on this plane. Also I tried doing some rolling harriers and it just doesn't fly nice on its side. Maybe I need more practice or maybe my rudder throw is too much? All I can say is that a few days ago I was doing all of this perfectly on my Magic Extra 300L. too early to tell. Inverted flight is almost level.

One mistake that almost cost me the plane: When setting up for a blender I didn't go upwind far enough and by the time the plane got to the pull-out altitude, it was pretty far away. I ended up over the woods trying to figure out which side of my plane was the top. I really should have crashed but I somehow pulled out of it. I'm not proud of this but just thought I'd share my mistake. Also I'm using an older AM radio because I didn't want to buy a new flight pack for the plane. Well flying on high rates (3D rates) all the time is not what I call enjoyable. Landing is tough with the elevator so touchy. Also if you just bump the stick by accident while your flying close to the deck, it can instantly be on the ground. So I really need dual rates on this plane.

One thing I heard from others is that you can lose orientation of the plane. This is true. Even right over the field it was kind of tough. So I recommend keeping it close as possible.

I only flew 4 flights and my hands were freezing so that's all I got. All in all it's a pretty nice flying plane for $99. I really didn't like all the time I had to spend fixing things that didn't go together well. Very frustrating. I never expected to spend all that extra time.

Here are some pic's and a formal RCU review.
Please excuse my gross looking bench top. It needs a resurfacing.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=193

Thanks,
Joe

I flew this at my club's New Year's Day Fun Fly today. Wow this thing is a blast to fly. It was worth all the trouble I had assembling it. I am running an APC 11.5-4 on an OS40FP and it really hovers nicely. I even managed a blender but the wind was relentless so I couldn't do many. Great plane for $99. Covering is really durable. I should have popped several holes in by now but the covering just so strong.

Joe

I recently bought a Fun Fly -40 from Chief Aircraft and I have to tell you, I can't believe the junk that is on the market these days. From reports from other guys I figure it will fly OK but the design is so poorly thought out, the hardware is junk, nothing fits. I am a pretty good builder and MODIFIER but why should I pay good money for a SO CALLED ARF when I have to spend SO Much time fixing this companies crap!!! Why is it even out there on the market? Why are dealers selling this stuff when they surely know the item is basically DEFECTIVE. I think we are all a bunch of suckers out here. We buy these planes and then we pat ourselves on the back for having the skill to fix all the problems we should never have had to fix in the first place. No tail skid or wheel either!! What trash.

Yeah I agree that the plane will not go together as supplied but if you work through it it does fly pretty nice. Here are the main fixes needed.

1) Engine blind nuts will not go in since there is triangle stock in the way. Fix. Make some 45 degree angle adaptors out of ply that will give the blind nut a surface to sit on.
2) Put the throttle tube right next to the inside wall of the fuse so the tank fits in. Cut a little half circle into the main former so the throttle tube doesn't get pinched by the gas tank. This is a must.
3) Put the rudder servo on top of the fuse. There isn't enough space for the elevator and rudder servos inside the fuse. Plus you get a perfectly centered pull pull system.
4) The fin needs to be raised using 3/16 balsa stock. Glue the balsa onto the bottom of the fin and later sand it to the correct height and glue the entire fin into the fuse. Slide triangle stock balsa inside the fuse from the back on the bottom of the fin to make it stronger. Use epoxy.
5) Cut off part of the rudder so it doesn't hit the elevator control horn and control surface.
6) Use a piece of balsa and CA to hold the tank in place. It just fits and needs to be held in or it will push on the wing.
7) Cut a piece of scrap music wire and bend it into a tail skid. Put a "U" in it and use two screws with CA hardened holes to screw into.
Doesn't stear and I don't care. Works fine.

Had the same problems with the Funair 20. Back of the tank sat above the wing saddle, as did the servo arms. No tailkid, Elevator horn drags on the ground without a skid. Poor technically but does fly nicer, with the symetrical wing, than the Magic with the almost flat bottom wing.

I sent an e-mail to Chief Aircraft telling them about all the fixes I had to make. I'm curious as to their response.

Joe