OK Chip,
Started working on mine Monday and have a couple of issues I need clerity on.
1- On pic 1- note there are two holes on the rear cabane (Note- the front and rear are the same size). Which set of holes do I use on this cabane? And is this supoose to be the rear cabane?
2- The cabane cross members has two holes drilled at one end. Now they seem to only line up one way, but it is a bit confusing. Can you clerify?
3- The only bolts available for the upper wing center section is a Bolt and a Screw. Why? And the center section sits /_ crooked to the top of the cabane and will dent the center section. Anyone using some padding here?
4-Motor Mount issue. I was sent 2 1/2" DA motor mount posts. These cannot be correct as the spinner back plate would be over 1/2" in front of the cowling. What size Motor Mount posts should I have.

There are three of us here in Raleigh, NC with the same issues with all three planes. Thanks in advance for your response.
Anthony Wiencek
Raleigh, NC

More pics to go along with the questions

One Bolt and One Screw?

Engine length from back plate to rear of motor mounts is 6 3/8"

DA motor mount posts are 2 1/2" long

From fire wall to max cowl extension is only 5 7/8". With the 2 1/2" posts, the back plate would extend 1/2' too far.

The last pic was taken to show the cowl at max extension as the bottom slant starts to become visable at 5 7/8"

Every Problem you have I had. I found that both upper wing mounts are exactly the same length, so I had to add a 3/16 spacer between the front one and the wing to get the proper incidence. I had one screw and one bolt for the top wing. I also realized and complained about the motor mount dimesions that were taken from the stock photo on the DA websight and have no relation to the DV.

Also the manual is wrong about the elevator pushrods and the aileron servo arms and pushrods. The plane does fly well and is unbelievable for harriers but is a pain in the ***** to build. It not really an ARF but more of a semi complete kit.

If I can think of more stuff I will add it.

Joe

I called DA and spoke to Brian. He told me the correct size stand offs / mounts are 1 1/4". I can send the 2 1/2 back and they will swap out to the 1 1/4". He said to use the 1 1/4" with a 1/4 spacer and that will space the engine forward where you can access the needles.
So, one issue completed.
Lat night I mounted the cabanes. With the holes that were drilled, there was really only one way the cabanes would line up, but in doing so, I had about 1/4" of the crossmember sticking out past the rear cabane, so i trimmed that off.
I spoke to 'KITMAN" yesterday and he was as puzzled as me about the cabanes.
And why cant we ship standard hardware to where these things are built. I hate metric!
Anthony Wiencek
Raleigh, NC

Anthony
here is a something that I copied from another thread where chip tells you how to set up the cabane and the interplane struts,
i went back to mine and everything fit much better after reading this.

End struts
First loosen all the center cabane bolts and make sure the cross brace is running from the bottom front to the top rear a-frame. Then take the two bolts for the cross braces out of the rear a-frames and leave the front ones loose for the time being. This allows the top wing to rock back and fourth to fit the end struts. Next, with either a cut off wheel or a ginding bit enlogate the two slots on the bottom or each end strut as far back as you can without breaking through the fiber glass. It should only be about an 1/8th-1/4 inch or so. Once this is done do the same thing to the two slots on the top of the struts, just the opposite direction . This allows them to fit the wings correctly, for assembly. Now with every thing still loose assemble the plane and when the fit is how you like apply BLUE LOCKTITE to the two bolts that hold the center rib to the a frames and retighten. It may be nessasary to push back on the top wing while doing this which doesn't hurt a thing. Next apply BLUE LOCTITE to the four bolts that hold the aframe to the fuse and retighten those. The cross brace should now line up with the lowest hole on the rear a frame and can be LOCTITED and retighened as well. If the holes are not perfect, either enlonggate or redrill the hole in the cross brace.

From here just mark the locations on the end struts wear you need to drill and after drilling those 8 holes you are finished. Do two holes at a time (I start with the bottom ones) and make sure to put bolts through the holes as you drill them to keep the struts indicated correctly and assure all 4 holes will line up on each strut. You can use the nuts/bolts supplied, or feel free to tap the aluminum to 6/32 and do it that way without the nuts. When using the 6/32 method make sure to apply a small amout of BLUE LOCTITE every time you assemble the plane. I am going to post some pics of exactly how my stuff is mounted later this week. My planes are all in the Chicago area for next weeks XFC, so I can't just walk out to the shop and take the pictures.
This should help, and the all up process shouldn't take much more then a half hour or so.

Chip