bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

Airborn2.4 why not put some pictures of warm weather with some sunshine . must be nice in the Bahamas today Michigan is about 20 degrees today snow

Grelker

My Feedback: (58)

bigjer - Nice setup. One comment is that you may want to extend your vent line so that the top of the loop extends past the end of the tank. This will assure no fuel leaks out in a downline.

Grelker

My Feedback: (58)

Bigjer - I have been running Amsoil Saber at 80:1 in my gassers for a couple of years now. No problems. I started using the amsoil after some internet research that showed very little internal carbon buildup with the amsoil vs. other types of oil. Although it's a llittle spendy, a quart should last you a season and there's almost no cleanup.

Grelker

My Feedback: (58)

Bemeson, I always seal the hinge gaps on my planes no matter how small the gap. I've read lots of articles that suggest this be done. The way I do it is first tape the control surface down at full deflection, then cut 1" wide strips of clear covering a little longer than the hinge line. Starting at one end, seal the clear covering on one side of the gap, then on the other working your way to the end. For the first few times, you may want to cut the length of each strip to fit between the hinges. Once you get the hang of it, one continuous strip will go in nicely.

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

side A 17.5" side B 8" side C 33.5"

airborne2.4

Here ya go

bemeson

I finished installing the rudder to the vert stab this weekend and attached the pull pull system. It went together without any hitches. I had one small problem. I had the canopy cover sitting on a chair while I was working. My three year old daughter came by to assist me and we both tripped causing the canopy to get smashed. I wanted to say a few choice words, but I held my tongue like a good dad should. Today I went to AW and purchased a new one at the tune of 54.00 bucks. It stung a bit, but I guess that's why it's nice to have AW in my backyard.

I mounted the motor over the weekend where I determined that I will need 1/4 spacers between the firewall and end of the stand offs. The manual indicated it should have been about an 1/8 but according to my measurements it will be 1/4. I cut some small squares out of 1/4 light laminated ply instead of using 4 metal washers per standoff. I could have ordered high end billet alluminum ones, but I will check to make sure this is the correct length. If I choose to use them, I will have to coat them with epoxy to fuel proof them.

I also attached the JTEC muffler. Its a perfect fit, but I assumed it would since its made for AW by JTEC. I will try to attach some photos of everything tonight if I get a minute. This plane is gone together faster than any ARF I have ever built. When AW says its a quick build they were not kidding. I have not encountered any of standard problems with this build as I have with others I have built in the past. I could get very spoiled building AW planes. Pictures to follow tonight.

bemeson

Here is the pictures as I promised. I even posted the broken canopy.

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

This is my first gas plane with electronic ignition. Do you think it would be ok to use a single battery to power the receiver and the ignition? The 3200mah LiFe (6.6v) battery from Hobbico has two power leads out of the box and and only weighs 7.4 oz. Also curious if anyone knows the amp draw of the ignition unit for the DLE 30.

bemeson

Yes you run a single battery, but run two switches. You may need nose weight to balance the plane though. I am running dual 1700 life batteries for mine on separate switches

bemeson

By the way I have another plane with a dle30. When I fly it for four ten min flights it uses 400 milliamps on a 4.8 nimh battery

bemeson

I forgot to include the pictures of my engine mount.

airborne2.4

Looks like a perfect fit to me

booboo71

Building one of these for my first gasser and keep reading about gas engine vibration.
Would some littlestiff rubber squaresdo any good behind the standoffs or is it nothing to worry about?

bemeson

If you balance your prop and spinner correctly, you will have nothing to worry about. I wouldn't want to use the rubber squares unless it was very stiff or hard. (Then it wouldn't help anyways) The torque these motors put out is quite strong and I want my motor firmly attached to the firewall. IMHO. If you want to see how to properly balance a prop go to www.redwingrc.com and go to his videos. He has an excellent video on exactly how to balance a propeller properly. It made a huge difference in the vibration on my gas planes.

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

bemson,

Thanks for the heads upon the battery, and current draw of the ignition unit

Unless its the camera angle it looks like your measurement is 6 1/2". There is an amendment to the instructions that says to go to 6 5/8". It should take a 5/16" spacer I machined a few out of aluminum. Hopefully it's just camera angle easy fix if not.

Attached is the addendum if needed there is a few updates.

bemeson

Tri-Power thanks for the tip, I believe its in the photo. The thrust washer is set at 6 5/8 which should give me a 1/8 gap between spinner and cowl. We will see.

Thanks
Brian

booboo71

Can anyone measure how tall the throttle servo tray is? Mine looks shorter than the onepictured and there is three holes across the front.
Thanks!

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

Its an inch tall, It does look short but but it should be ok as a good portion of the servo is above the mount. And yes mine has the 3 holes on the long side

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

30cc engine installation.
I didn't like the way the engine mount bolts are jamed in the corner the holes actually are split by the tri stock gusset in the corner preventing the bolt head from seating properly.
I suggest using a 1/4" thick piece of ply, bevel the edges to fit the corners and you will be able to use a good area washer. I made it a little wider than necessary (not on purpose).
looks like a little over a 1/4" spacers will get you the proper thrust washer to firewall distance with the standoffs that come with the DLE 30

bemeson

Well I installed my motor I believe for the final time. I ended up getting some 1/4" aluminum spacers added to the end of my standoffs. I added a 1/16 washer to get it to the 5/16 as was posted in the previous threads. I trimmed the cowl got everything to fit and guess what? No need for the washer. I took the washer out and low and behold, I had the perfect 1/8 gap for the spinner. I should have trusted my measurement.

Another problem if you space the motor out 5/16, you will have a cowl rub right at the corner of the wrap around pitts muffler. I will take some pictures of the install to show exactly what I did. It was too late by the time I finished to take pictures. Good luck to you all

Oh yea, if you purchased the Tru Turn spinner custom cut for the DLE 30, you will need to get a new hex bolt because the guys at Tru Turn who custom cut the spinner for the DLE 30 provided a hex head bolt that was waaaaaaaaaay to short. Some much for the custom cut spinner. It looks pretty good, but they cut so much of the spinner out to fit a bigger prop, the allens that hold the prop to the spinner are showing. Maybe its because its so late, you guys can give me your opinion.

Good night

Brian

Thanks Mark for the help at the shop today it paid off.

bemeson

Here is a couple of photos with the cowl on. I was too tired to take it off this morning.

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

The gap looks great, I may need to machine a little off my 5/16 spacers. I am sitting at exactly 6 5/8" right now, I'll see how it goes when I get to install the cowl.

I agree with you on the spinner looks like they machined out just a little too much but it still looks ok.

I'm thinking about shortening the plug wire off the ignition box, little too much extra cable for my taste.

Your progress looks great I haven’t got my spinner or muffler yet. I was thinking of getting the custom tru turn and get it in black anodized, but now I am giving a second thought on the tru turn I may just modify one myself I have had good success before doing it although it is time consuming to do a nice job.

airborne2.4

[/quote]
How do you go about shortening the wire?

tripower222

My Feedback: (5)

I just got done doing it. You will need crimp and a the correct shrink wrap (use the stuff with the adhesive inside). There is a new boot kit available if you botch it up so don’t worry about it. It's really pretty simple if you can come up with the crimp. It will be self explanatory as you remove the heat shrink and disassemble.