Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
07-16-2009, 09:59 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
Congrats to everyone who received their Extra safely. The first thing I noticed out of the box is how beautiful the lines are on this plane. The fuse is big! The scheme is beautiful. I took out all the gear out of the Yak and cleared my work station. Tomorrow, I'll start going over the covering even though it's already perfect.
07-17-2009, 02:59 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
good news!!!!! got mine today from rc mty!!!! hope to start to built next week when arrives my motor and all eletronics. Hope to post pics today!!! the only thing i can say is great packing, everything is in place.
07-17-2009, 06:19 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
I started mine today, but didn't get anywhere. I went over the covering on the wings and got to the servo installations. Then I found out, my servos were all wacked out from programming for the Yak. I had borrowed someone else's programmer so I don't have one. I put in order for a programmer on Tower and now I'm on the back burner. Oh well, more hynoptic gazes at the plane while I wait for the programmer.
07-17-2009, 08:56 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
I'm right with ya Frankie. I spent the morning flying then got started on the plane this afternoon. First order last night was to print the manual and I built a styrofoam craddle to set the plane in while I assemble it. Today, I notice that the covering had wrinkled-up a bit after sitting in my house for the night. Got everything pulled tight now and it's beautiful. Ultracote is the best !!! I've epoxy painted the engine box and firewall inside and out, sealed the hinges and I'm just about to program my servos. Should have the servos in and the rudder on by the end of the night. Very Cool Plane !
One more comment with respect to AW packaging which you don't see (at least I haven't) anywhere else and that is that AW doesn't dump all the hardware in one plastic bag all mixed together which leaves you to figure out which screws are for what and which piece goes here and which piece goes there and blah, blah, blah. AW packages each 'area' of hardware seperately and sometimes, affixes it to the specific part it's for. For example, if you look inside the cowl, there's a little baggy with the cowl screws taped inside. Same for the wheel assembly, they've put the wheels, axles, collars, wheelpant screws all together. The wing tubes, anti-rotation pin 'clips' and wing bolts are all together in the wing tube bag. Makes assembly so nice and easy without the frustrations[sm=confused_smile.gif] of searching for one or two tiny screws in a bag of a hundred little parts that can all look the same! It's that thought and attention to detail that keeps me coming back to AW. Good job again AW !!! [sm=thumbup.gif]
One more comment with respect to AW packaging which you don't see (at least I haven't) anywhere else and that is that AW doesn't dump all the hardware in one plastic bag all mixed together which leaves you to figure out which screws are for what and which piece goes here and which piece goes there and blah, blah, blah. AW packages each 'area' of hardware seperately and sometimes, affixes it to the specific part it's for. For example, if you look inside the cowl, there's a little baggy with the cowl screws taped inside. Same for the wheel assembly, they've put the wheels, axles, collars, wheelpant screws all together. The wing tubes, anti-rotation pin 'clips' and wing bolts are all together in the wing tube bag. Makes assembly so nice and easy without the frustrations[sm=confused_smile.gif] of searching for one or two tiny screws in a bag of a hundred little parts that can all look the same! It's that thought and attention to detail that keeps me coming back to AW. Good job again AW !!! [sm=thumbup.gif]
07-17-2009, 11:17 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
thats a good comment my friend, and thats why somethings def. it worth to pay extra...i rememeber my Align 500 heli build, everything is so easy when you know where to search, what bag # is the correct one, etc.
I need to get back my table from my friend to start to build this beaty.
Regards,
I need to get back my table from my friend to start to build this beaty.
Regards,
07-18-2009, 01:07 AM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
I found out my LHS had the programmer in stock so I canceled the order and got the programmer. I guess I'm extremely slow because I only got one wing done. lol When you guys get to the wing linkage, tell me if you get bevel to bevel throw with the 1.25" servo arms. I'm not, but I do get lots of throw for the recommended 40 degree 3D throws.
BTW, the AW method of putting glue on the screws and then screwing them in can cause a big headache when you start putting them in. The supplied screws tend to strip. So what I did, was tap the holes with the screws first, and then wick in some medium CA into the holes. Then I lit them dry a little and then screwed them in. They go in easily and are completely secured.
BTW, the AW method of putting glue on the screws and then screwing them in can cause a big headache when you start putting them in. The supplied screws tend to strip. So what I did, was tap the holes with the screws first, and then wick in some medium CA into the holes. Then I lit them dry a little and then screwed them in. They go in easily and are completely secured.
07-18-2009, 07:34 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
I got both wings done, programming and all. Tonight, I'll do the stabs. Tomorrow, I'll do the rudder. You gotta love these QB planes. They're fun to put together.
07-18-2009, 09:42 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
Frankie... I didn't get as much done yesterday as I thought I would. Got all the hinges sealed and the rudder epoxied in (still have to seal the rudder hinges).
Regarding your throws, I programmed my servos and find with a 1-1/2" arm, I get plenty of down aileron but can only safely get about 2-1/2" of up before the throw binds. That's only about 24 degrees of throw (up). Any suggestions on getting the throw to go completely to the bevel on the 'up'? I know they suggest heating the hinge glue but I don't know if I like that idea but then again, I've never done it.
I don't know if you (or anyone else) noticed that the wood screws supplied to attach the control horns come in 2 different lengths. There are 12 x 12mm and 24 x 16mm. In the instructions, it doesn't specify which lengths are to be used on which control horns. By my calculations, I think the 12 x 12mm are to be used to attach the rudder control horns. Since the holes on each side of the rudder directly oppose each other, if you use the 16mm screws, the tips of the screws will hit each other inside. Sooooo.... I'm thinkin' the 12mm's are for the rudder and the 16mm's are for all the others.
Havin' fun puttin' it together. This is my first time using the servo programmer so it's a bit of a learning curve as well. I sure like being able to program the center points and end points so as to maintain full resolution.
Regarding your throws, I programmed my servos and find with a 1-1/2" arm, I get plenty of down aileron but can only safely get about 2-1/2" of up before the throw binds. That's only about 24 degrees of throw (up). Any suggestions on getting the throw to go completely to the bevel on the 'up'? I know they suggest heating the hinge glue but I don't know if I like that idea but then again, I've never done it.
I don't know if you (or anyone else) noticed that the wood screws supplied to attach the control horns come in 2 different lengths. There are 12 x 12mm and 24 x 16mm. In the instructions, it doesn't specify which lengths are to be used on which control horns. By my calculations, I think the 12 x 12mm are to be used to attach the rudder control horns. Since the holes on each side of the rudder directly oppose each other, if you use the 16mm screws, the tips of the screws will hit each other inside. Sooooo.... I'm thinkin' the 12mm's are for the rudder and the 16mm's are for all the others.
Havin' fun puttin' it together. This is my first time using the servo programmer so it's a bit of a learning curve as well. I sure like being able to program the center points and end points so as to maintain full resolution.
07-18-2009, 09:57 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
ORIGINAL: Lumpy n bumpy
Frankie... I didn't get as much done yesterday as I thought I would. Got all the hinges sealed and the rudder epoxied in (still have to seal the rudder hinges).
Regarding your throws, I programmed my servos and find with a 1-1/2'' arm, I get plenty of down aileron but can only safely get about 2-1/2'' of up before the throw binds. That's only about 24 degrees of throw (up). Any suggestions on getting the throw to go completely to the bevel on the 'up'? I know they suggest heating the hinge glue but I don't know if I like that idea but then again, I've never done it.
I don't know if you (or anyone else) noticed that the wood screws supplied to attach the control horns come in 2 different lengths. There are 12 x 12mm and 24 x 16mm. In the instructions, it doesn't specify which lengths are to be used on which control horns. By my calculations, I think the 12 x 12mm are to be used to attach the rudder control horns. Since the holes on each side of the rudder directly oppose each other, if you use the 16mm screws, the tips of the screws will hit each other inside. Sooooo.... I'm thinkin' the 12mm's are for the rudder and the 16mm's are for all the others.
Havin' fun puttin' it together. This is my first time using the servo programmer so it's a bit of a learning curve as well. I sure like being able to program the center points and end points so as to maintain full resolution.
Frankie... I didn't get as much done yesterday as I thought I would. Got all the hinges sealed and the rudder epoxied in (still have to seal the rudder hinges).
Regarding your throws, I programmed my servos and find with a 1-1/2'' arm, I get plenty of down aileron but can only safely get about 2-1/2'' of up before the throw binds. That's only about 24 degrees of throw (up). Any suggestions on getting the throw to go completely to the bevel on the 'up'? I know they suggest heating the hinge glue but I don't know if I like that idea but then again, I've never done it.
I don't know if you (or anyone else) noticed that the wood screws supplied to attach the control horns come in 2 different lengths. There are 12 x 12mm and 24 x 16mm. In the instructions, it doesn't specify which lengths are to be used on which control horns. By my calculations, I think the 12 x 12mm are to be used to attach the rudder control horns. Since the holes on each side of the rudder directly oppose each other, if you use the 16mm screws, the tips of the screws will hit each other inside. Sooooo.... I'm thinkin' the 12mm's are for the rudder and the 16mm's are for all the others.
Havin' fun puttin' it together. This is my first time using the servo programmer so it's a bit of a learning curve as well. I sure like being able to program the center points and end points so as to maintain full resolution.
I noticed the two sizes of wood screws also when I got to the stabs. I think you're right, the shorter ones are for the rudder, makes sense.
Another discrepancy, the picture of the stab linkages show the ball link installed "on top of" of the servo arm. In the pictures after (which are pictures of the 50cc Edge Stab), showing the linkages, the ball links are "under" the servo arms like the wing linkages. I believe the correct way is "under" and it looks like that's how Jake did it, but I'm not 100% on this.
Edit: I looked at the AW Ultimate manual and it uses the "under" method. So both the 50cc Edge and Ultimates use this method. That's what I will go with.
07-18-2009, 11:00 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
Ok, an update, the "under" method yields full throw with the linkage on the control horn hole closest to the elevator. That would be the third hole from the top.
BTW Lumpy, I forgot to say to make sure you have the linkage on the third hole from the top also for the wing. (Hole closest to the aileron).
BTW Lumpy, I forgot to say to make sure you have the linkage on the third hole from the top also for the wing. (Hole closest to the aileron).
07-19-2009, 09:28 AM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
Hey guys,
The biggest thing to worry about is geometry. Where the horns go into the elevators is 1" so you measure from the center of the surface (1/2") to the center of the hole where the ball link will go in the control horn and this distance should match your servo arm length.
I was able to get bevel on the ailerons by adjust my travel to 105% each way. I used a 1.25" arm and the bottom hole on the control horn. I will probably move up on the control horns so I can get closer to 130% end points for better resolution.
Bevel to bevel on the ailerons is 55 degrees, really not needed anything over 40 degrees is plenty for 3D.
Anyhow, I moved on to cleaning up the rudder hinges and installing the pull / pull.
The biggest thing to worry about is geometry. Where the horns go into the elevators is 1" so you measure from the center of the surface (1/2") to the center of the hole where the ball link will go in the control horn and this distance should match your servo arm length.
I was able to get bevel on the ailerons by adjust my travel to 105% each way. I used a 1.25" arm and the bottom hole on the control horn. I will probably move up on the control horns so I can get closer to 130% end points for better resolution.
Bevel to bevel on the ailerons is 55 degrees, really not needed anything over 40 degrees is plenty for 3D.
Anyhow, I moved on to cleaning up the rudder hinges and installing the pull / pull.
07-19-2009, 02:36 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
ORIGINAL: Jake Ruddy
Hey guys,
The biggest thing to worry about is geometry. Where the horns go into the elevators is 1'' so you measure from the center of the surface (1/2'') to the center of the hole where the ball link will go in the control horn and this distance should match your servo arm length.
I was able to get bevel on the ailerons by adjust my travel to 105% each way. I used a 1.25'' arm and the bottom hole on the control horn. I will probably move up on the control horns so I can get closer to 130% end points for better resolution.
Hey guys,
The biggest thing to worry about is geometry. Where the horns go into the elevators is 1'' so you measure from the center of the surface (1/2'') to the center of the hole where the ball link will go in the control horn and this distance should match your servo arm length.
I was able to get bevel on the ailerons by adjust my travel to 105% each way. I used a 1.25'' arm and the bottom hole on the control horn. I will probably move up on the control horns so I can get closer to 130% end points for better resolution.
I noticed you're using 1.5" arms and then going to the second hole. Do you think this helps?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I'm not getting bevel to bevel. I'm using a 1.25" arm and the bottom hole on the control horn.
Edit: I just measured my throws again. I'm getting exactly 40 degrees up and down and that's what's recommended so it's fine.
Onto some more "building"!
07-19-2009, 08:50 PM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
Got both stabs done, programming and all. I also hinged the rudder. I like putting the linkages on the rudder before hinging to make it a little easier. Tomorrow, I might do the pull-pull, just gotta get my rudder servo (7955), which is due to come in from TBM tomorrow.
07-20-2009, 09:32 AM
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RE: Introducing The New 50cc Extra 300 ARF-QB!
ORIGINAL: Ferocious Frankie
I noticed you're using 1.5'' arms and then going to the second hole. Do you think this helps?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I'm not getting bevel to bevel. I'm using a 1.25'' arm and the bottom hole on the control horn.
Edit: I just measured my throws again. I'm getting exactly 40 degrees up and down and that's what's recommended so it's fine.
Onto some more ''building''!
I noticed you're using 1.5'' arms and then going to the second hole. Do you think this helps?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I'm not getting bevel to bevel. I'm using a 1.25'' arm and the bottom hole on the control horn.
Edit: I just measured my throws again. I'm getting exactly 40 degrees up and down and that's what's recommended so it's fine.
Onto some more ''building''!
Have you turned up your End Points or ETAs?