kerwin50

Thanks Blade I hope to do some more work on her tomorrow. I plan on beefing up the landing gear area

emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

I am wanting one of these planes but what bothers me is that the fuse looks so week. i now i was built light but it looks like it will snap in half.?

kerwin50

Yeah That scared me at 1st also but over at FG there's an aussie thread on this plane and those boys are flying the tar out of it.
I guess with the light wing loading this plane flys and lands like a trainer.
I was going to beef up the landing gear like on the redwings, but it's already been done. GoldWing has done this on the version 2.
I've heard tell of this plane bending the gear instead of breaking the plane on a hard hit.
I'm no 3Der by any means I just want a nice flying plane.

For years I've flown hersey bar wings because I hate snaps. Some years ago I had a 88 inch cap 21 that you had to be really easy on the elevator or she'd snap. After her I never went back to that type of wing platform till now.
My main plane is a twist 40 with an os 61 fx on it and I've pretty much got it mastered SO now it's MX time

kerwin50

It's been awhile since I did anything to the green machine. For me it's been baby steps when it comes to the cost and building of your larger model airplanes.
I got my DLE 30 Friday. I did some electrical and mechanical work on a datsun 260Z in exchange for a DLE 30.
I got the template for the motor off of the gas engine fourm.

Even with the template I managed to get 1 of the holes off. I took 2 pieces of 1/8 inch plywood and put behind the bad hole.

I've talked to several people that have put a DLE 30 on the MX and they all say the stand-off need to be 40 mm.
I had a guy cut my stand-offs down and retap them . he cut the motor side off and they were just a bit crooked. So I turned the stand offs around.
I had to grind a flat spot on the stand off to clear a bolt next to the mounting lugs. I then bolted the stand off's factory edge to factory edge.
I found some rather soft 3/4 inch washer. I had to grind off 1 side of the washer to get it to clear the lip on the motor box.
Now when tightening the mounting bolts the washers will conform to the stand off and also pull into the wood .

I also to open the hole on the firewall for the carb

mschulz531

Kerwin,

I'm enjoying watching your build because I'm building the Goldwing Su-26m 30cc which is actually pictured on the front of your MX2 box! So it is a very similar build. I bought mine from Valley View hobbies which also has great prices and excellent customer service.
My build is going slowly as well. Every little item seems to cost so much money! I'm also installing a DLE-30 on mine.

I have a question about the ball link joints - how many came with your kit? I think I'm missing a few. The way I count it, there should be 2 per aileron servo, 4 for the pull pull rudder system, and 2 for the elevator servo (single servo elevator setup). That makes 10 ball link joints. I can only find 6 in my kit - were you missing any?
Also, how did you connect the ball link to the servo horn? I see the top view where you have a bolt on top, but can you show the bottom side of that connection?

Thanks,
Mike
my build thread is here if you are interested: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10374977/tm.htm

kerwin50

I thought that I was missing some ball links also but they were attached to the rudder cables

mschulz531

kerwin50,
How are you planning to beef up the landing gear area?
Have you done this yet? Any pics?
-Mike

flying.2006

hope you landing gear is better than my one was only 5 flights land gear fell to bits right off every landing has to be a soft one a hard one will be your last one

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Was it the carbon gear?? Did you get it replaced? Who did you buy it from?? THANKS!!

flying.2006

yes it was carbon gear no it has not been replaced only 2 weeks old lots of damage to much to repair global uk wen i got the mx2 i got a global yak 55m-30 at the same time it look very week as well very unhappy

mschulz531

Would you post a picture of the airframe after the crash? I'd like to see what kind of damage you are talking about.
I'm building a GoldWing Su-26m 30cc (very similar) and I'd like to know how I should reinfornce the gear.

mschulz531

Kerwin50,
Any update on your build progress?
I finished the wings and I'm moving on to the landing gear next.
-Mike

kerwin50

I've got alot done on the green machine but havn't posted here for awhile as they had a really bad virus here. Every time I posted the virus would delete my modem and disc drives. I had to do a factory restore in order to get it back up an running.
I havn't done alot of extra beefing up on the gear area as on a hard hit I'd rather break the landing gear block than bust it some where else. I mainly just added extra epoxy in that area.

kerwin50

I,ve done alot to the MX and alot to talk about.
My servo's are GMP's http://www.giantmodelproducts.com/in...tv8iv1s21otvi6 servos.

I'm using the 5515 pon the rudder and ailerons and the 5511's on the elev.
The throttle is using the 5509.

Now the ball links on this kit are very tight and I've read on other threads where the HD's and hitec's 645 had lot's of problems centering with these ball links.

I was really impressed with how these servo's center and I can't wait to try them in the air.

mschulz531

Those servo torque numbers...are they for real? Even the $20 servos are monsters if these numbers are true!
What is the difference between stall torque and standing torque?
Most servos seem to be rated by stall torque but these seem to be rated by standing torque.

kerwin50

I'm going to try an upload some pictures.

I cut 2 pieces of light ply and glued them on the fuse next to the fire wall for my fuel dot. the 1st piece was smaller than the last piece.
I ended up getting a fuel dot that was to small.

kerwin50

My batteries are hydramax 2000 mah nimh's.
The RX is a 5 cell and the Ing is a 4 cell.
It really took some cycling to get these batteries up to capacity.
The 1st few cycles I couldn't even get more than 800 mah.
After 6 cycles with a Triton I'm getting 110% now.

mschulz531

Great pictures, thanks for uploading them. The clear fuel tubing - is that tygon or some other gas-safe tubing?
Also, I thought most modelers use some sort of extra tubing on the top of the tank to prevent siphoning?
Did you cut a hole in the firewall because the standoffs were too long based on the cowl depth, or some other reason?
-Mike

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Mike,
Can I get your Number to call you??

kerwin50

I think the standing #'s are the stall #'s. These are really powerful servo's. They center well and are not the current hogs that digtals are. So they won't drain my batteries as fast.

I got my fuel tubing from O'Riely's in their small gas engine section. I had the yellow Tygon laying around.

I pulled the engine after doing my test runs and mixed some 30 min epoxy and acohol. I then fuel proofed the engine compartment and motor box.

For the DLE 30 I had to cut a hole in the firewall for the carb and cut my stand-off to 38mm. That gave me the proper clearnce for the cowl.

Now I was going to have to make a small cut in the cowl for the muffler, but since I'm going to the single bolt prop adapter, I'm going to have to recut my stand-offs but I'm not going to have to cut a hole for the muffler.

kerwin50

I'm really regretting dual servos on my elev.
With this light weight DLE 30 and the power of the goteck servo, a single servo back there would balance this plane alittle better.
I ended up putting the 5515's on the elev as they track each other much better.

My radio is a Futaba 9C. I used channel 2 and 8 for the elev's using the ailvator program on the 2nd page of the program menu of the 9C.

mschulz531

Kerwin50,
Interesting that you would mention the dual elevator servo issue...I just installed one elevator servo, and my next step is to install the other one. I also (will) have a Gotek 5515 (from Giant Model Products) - I was going to use it for the rudder servo. Perhaps instead I'll use it for the elevator as you suggest and leave it as a one servo setup for the elevator. I was concerned about the weight of the two elevator servos, and I guess my concern was justified. What did you have to do up front to balance with the two elevator servos?
-Mike

kerwin50

If I can't get things moved around alittle better I may have to add weight, but I've got a single bolt prop adaptor going on so that will add some weight.

kerwin50

I got my single bolt prop adaptor. It didn't come with any instructions. I cut the shaft off about an 1/8 inch from the prop hub adaptor.
I beveled the end of it to allow the adaptor top bolt up flush to the prop hub.

I had to re cut my stand offs to 34 mm. It look as though I'm not going to have to cut the cowl for clearnce on the muffler.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't add some baffling in my cowl.

I made a switch mount out of some scrap that I had.
I put the switch on the black part of the checkerboard.

kerwin50

I remounted my battery packs and ING. For the batt packs I used some foam sanding blocks I had laying around.
I'm so glad I beveled the hex part of my spark plug CM 6. It really makes putting the cap on so much easier.