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GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

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GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Old 08-06-2003, 01:39 AM
  #26  
ram3500-RCU
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Had the same problem with the stab. Mine was too loose from the get go. I simply slid the stabs into some clear silicon and wiped the excess off with alcohol. This formed a gasket that has not loosened up after about 60 flights.
Old 08-06-2003, 01:45 AM
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Maudib
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Now that's a great tip on the stab & silicone, thanks ram3500!


Now about the tailwheel... I can't imagine going thru all the trouble to makeup that ganged pushrod system...

I'm just going to use two springs running to both sides of the rudder horns...

Is that pretty much what others have done?

Originally posted by ram3500
Had the same problem with the stab. Mine was too loose from the get go. I simply slid the stabs into some clear silicon and wiped the excess off with alcohol. This formed a gasket that has not loosened up after about 60 flights.
Old 08-06-2003, 01:58 AM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

The horizontal stab issue is very common. I used cloth tape as a shim but it is loosening up. Next I want to try innertube rubber or neoprene. The obvious permenant solution it to glue it but I want to keep mine removable. The silicon would probably be removable and possibly the best of both worlds.
Old 08-06-2003, 02:12 AM
  #29  
ChixwithTrix
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I am going to do the springs...the stock tail wheel setup looks horrendous IMO
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Old 08-06-2003, 02:30 AM
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Volfy
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Do any of you fly the Patty off grass runways? How does the stock tailwheel do on grass? I agree it doesn't look too good, but maybe it works acceptably well?
Old 08-06-2003, 03:32 AM
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Stargazer
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I picked upthe Graphtec gear and tail wheel for mine so I'll be using the springs... Chix - I noticed that you are using regular servo arms, are you getting good throws with them? Can you get the High rates as per the manual? - You did download the manual right??
Old 08-06-2003, 03:42 AM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

ASAT-
Nah...thats a pic right after I got the plane from the hobby shop. I wouldn't be caught dead with stock arms like that on my Patty...I have since put on Dubro heavy duty arms and reversed the way the arm faces...Instead of the arm facing up and having the pushrod diagonal I have the arm facing down with the pushrod strait from the arm to the horn.

Yes I downloaded the manual...but I just quickly glanced over it

Volfy-
Once I fly the Extra it will be on a grass runway...but I don't know until then

EDIT-
The tail whell pushrod setup also adds some un-needed weight...not really much to fuss over...but if your a stickler for weight savings, I'd invest in a better tailwheel setup.
Old 08-06-2003, 03:56 AM
  #33  
ram3500-RCU
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I still use the stock tail wheel and fly off grass but I never used the stock rigging. Way too much brain surgery. Went to springs with the oem tail wheel. It needs to be bent back down occasionally. I intend to replace it with one a little stronger.
Old 08-06-2003, 09:58 AM
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Geistware
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

The silicon/stab thing, did you put silicon on the tube itself and slid the stab on or did you put silicon in the joint?

As far as the tail wheel, I removed part of the wheel bracket and mounted a 1-1/4 inch wheel. The one supplied is ridiculously too small!
Old 08-06-2003, 03:19 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Giestware, I just put silicon on the roots and slid the stabs into it. Don't worry about what squeezes out because it wipes off with alcohol. If you want to insure that they are still easily removable, just use wax paper over the end of the stabs when you slide them in and let it set up like that. Old trick I've used on wing saddles for years.
Old 08-06-2003, 03:26 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Alternate method is to substitute a little Vaseline on the root for the wax paper. I've had good success with this also and it makes it a little easer to wipe the excess off.
Old 08-06-2003, 04:09 PM
  #37  
Jaco
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Thanks for the silicon tip. Going to try it. I used a sullivan tailwheel assembly and it works great.
Old 08-06-2003, 05:48 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Originally posted by Geistware
As far as the tail wheel, I removed part of the wheel bracket and mounted a 1-1/4 inch wheel. The one supplied is ridiculously too small!
Geistware, that sounds like good idea to try. Do you have a picture of your setup?

If it doesn't work out, I'll replace it with a CBA/Tatone leaf spring tailwheel bracket. I've used several of these on other planes. They may be a tad heavy, but man, are they indestructable! Chances are, I could use some tailweight anyhow, since I will be hanging a 60 Oz. Poulan 46cc on the nose, more than likely.
Old 08-06-2003, 05:50 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I put an Ohio Tail wheel on mine. Used springs to stear the wheel connected to the rudder horns. Works better than the stock one.

Lee
Old 08-06-2003, 07:36 PM
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Geistware
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Here is the picture.
What exactly is the root of the stab?


Originally posted by Volfy
Geistware, that sounds like good idea to try. Do you have a picture of your setup?
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Old 08-06-2003, 07:39 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I used a Sullivan tailwheel bracket #S861 with a small plywood plate installed in the fuse to carry the bracket. It not only is light, it looks and works great, flying off of grass.
I also used Radio South CA hinges and have had no problem at all. I thought about using Robart hinges, but was concerned about any warranty issues that could arise if they failed. I have one of the very early kits and there was not a lot of information out there at the time about different hinges. Robarts are probably fine and a good option, but the CA's have been ok too.
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Old 08-06-2003, 07:47 PM
  #42  
gtrick90
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Hi Mordib.
great idea starting this new thread about Patty!

If someone interested I have some picture of my Patty with ZDZ 50 in my picture gallery
Chek it out!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/sh...at=500&thumb=1

I'm going to finish my Patty.
It's my first gas plane.

This is my setup

Hitec digital servos all around except for throttle and choke (std. Hitec servos)
Futaba 149DP 40MHz PCM receiver
Futaba ZAP WC2 transmitter
Airfly System (dual battery, servo amplifier, electronic key on/off/reset)
Dual 1800 Nicad battery packs (main & aux)
One 2000 NiMh ignition battery pack
Carbon fiber main gear
ZDZ 50 gas engine
Aerografixs engine stand offs
Mejzlick 22x10 carbon fiber prop
BCM muffler
Std. fuel tank with dubro gas stopper in std position (I'll try a smaller gas tank on the wing tube after testing the std. one)


I'll post more pictures in the next days.

Luca
Old 08-06-2003, 08:46 PM
  #43  
ram3500-RCU
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

The "root" of the stab I'm referring to is the part that is glued to the fuse. Sorry for not being more clear. And I miss stated where i put the Vaseline. I would put it on the end of the removable part , not the root.
Old 08-06-2003, 08:51 PM
  #44  
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I've got a question about balancing this plane I am using a BME 50 with the fuel tank and smoke tank on the cg and pull pull rudder instead of the servos in the back. My battery is behind the servo tray. My plane balanced perfectly with a 1800 mah nicd ignition battery in the motor box behind the firewall. the manual doesn't say whether to balance it upright or inverted, I balanced it upright. I've seen some posts on here from guys with a bme 50 that had to have all the servos and battery in the back of the plane to balance. I'm wondering if I am balancing the plane wrong because I expected it to be nose heavy.
Old 08-06-2003, 09:13 PM
  #45  
Maudib
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

GTrick 90...

Glad to have you!

Very nice and clean install...

If you have ANY issues with the engine running right you may have to open a hole in the firewall just behind the carb opening... It MAY be that turbulent air causes the carb to get uneven air intake...

Perhaps not, but keep it in mind.
Old 08-06-2003, 09:18 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

I think most are balancing their planes inverted, mainly as I understand it, because it's easier.... You may be able to get a more accurate balance fromt he top do to it hanging below the point of touch... but I doubt it would be MUCH dirfferent either way.

Someone correct me if I'm way off on this...

Originally posted by claysmith
I've got a question about balancing this plane I am using a BME 50 with the fuel tank and smoke tank on the cg and pull pull rudder instead of the servos in the back. My battery is behind the servo tray. My plane balanced perfectly with a 1800 mah nicd ignition battery in the motor box behind the firewall. the manual doesn't say whether to balance it upright or inverted, I balanced it upright. I've seen some posts on here from guys with a bme 50 that had to have all the servos and battery in the back of the plane to balance. I'm wondering if I am balancing the plane wrong because I expected it to be nose heavy.
Old 08-06-2003, 10:37 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

O K, Patty arrived today.

Wing tube slides in fine, colors match perfectly and the wife didn't yell too much.

Two questions, I found a loose piece of balsa in the fuse that looks like scrap, actually looks like a wing rib from a small plane, probably garbage right?

The instructions just say to install the engine with 7" to the backplate, how do you center it up and down? Is that what the alignment marks on the fire wall are for?

The requirement for servos is 60 oz minimum, so for the rudder would this mean 120 oz (instructions call for two rudder servos)?

OK three questions, for now.
Old 08-06-2003, 10:43 PM
  #48  
Maudib
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Could be a cutout piece from the stab opening...

oughtta shoot us a pic just in case...

Cool benas on yer colors matching...

I called a week ago about mine nto matching... the sent me another... and it's the same off color as the FIRST canopy...

I'm just gonna fly it...


The marks are indeed the thrust lines... mark your bolt pattern centered on that cross... it'll come out to center in the cowl...
Old 08-06-2003, 10:46 PM
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Yep, seems to fit in the opening for the stabilizer cut out.

Picture? Have to go find my 12 year old son.
Old 08-06-2003, 10:46 PM
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Maudib
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Default RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying

Oh... yea... two 60 .oz minimum....

Most guys are putting 2 - 100 .oz+ in in the tail (4 servos in the tail total)...

I have Hitec 5645's in the tail... and the new 5475HB's in the wing/throttle and choke... at 6 volt they give 76 .oz in. ea...

And I have all digital servos that way too...

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